THE RELEASE PT.4 (double sesh), SAT 12MAY2012 NOON

Location: North Oceanside

Crew: Francis, Jordan, Jimmy, and Rick

Conditions: 2-3 FT, howling onshore, sunny, hot, mooshy, choppy.

     Francis and jump in the wagon to meet up with everyone in O-Side. Our expectations aren’t high, but we are just hoping that it’s rideable. I don’t care if there’s texture; I just want some kind of shape that’s worthy enough for one turn.

     When we arrive, we take a look at the conditions. It’s a beautiful, hot summer day. There are some bikini’s walking around worth jacking off to, and a lot of families are barbecuing and drinking, but there’s one major problem. . . .

     The wind is so strong that it’s taking away the little of what shape there is. Even though there are a small handful of surfers, the peaks run away and crumble before any of them can even turn. It’s choppy, gutless, mooshy, and weak, but I’m hoping that there’s a chance we’ll get lucky.

     Jimmy is the first one to paddle out. He actually wears trunks and a rash guard. It seems like a good idea, but I think the wind gives too much of a chill factor. Jimmy’s in position for some waves, but the shoulder mooshes out and reforms into an unrideable mound.

     Rick and Francis follow behind. Some Marines are surfing too. They’re beginners because they’re lying too far back on their boards. Still, they’re smiling. To them, they are absolutely surfing, no doubt. They’ll be able to go home and say, “I surfed today.” They’re too new to realize that the conditions are terrible.

     I’m in the best position possible for the sets. I shoulder hunt, pick take-off spots with the greatest potential for distance, but still . . . the shoulders bog out into nothing.

     Francis gives up and body surfs. Rick tries to keep the energy up, hooting me on everything I catch. He’s on a longboard, and he doesn’t do much better than I.

     I’m the last one in the lineup, trying to force something, but there’s nothing to force.

#

     Back on shore, Francis and I are heading towards the shower. “You want a beer?” I ask.

     “Nah,” he says, “I don’t feel like I earned it.”