KLAUDE’S BACK, SUN 01JULY2012 MOR

Loc: 26th

Crew: Klaude, Dais, Daich

Time: 0730-0830

Conditions: 1-2 FT, inconsistent, high tide, sad

     I haven’t surfed with Klaude since he’s been back from Oahu. I missed yesterday’s surf sesh with him. Also, CC and Cheryl paddled out too. I haven’t seen them in a while, so I wanted to make sure that I committed myself to surfing on Sunday.

#

     Briana’s sleeping next to me. It’s 0700. I’m already late. I kiss her on the cheek, tell her I’ll be back, and head out the door with my gear. I choose the Tokoro because I’m over the JS. It just feels too big now, harder to whip around for turns; I don’t like that.

     I told Klaude I’d be out at first light, but I obviously failed at waking up when my alarm initially went off. I find street parking by Marine. My rims grind as I hit the curb. “Fuck!” I look at the scratch and say, “Fuck it.” I contemplate on how concerned I am with the cosmetics of my vehicle. Sure, no one wants a dent on the body, but does it really matter if my rim is scratched? I don’t think so.

     Once I’m on the sand, I’m looking for any familiar faces. It takes a while. I see no one. Just before I make my walk to the shallows, I see KK on a crumbly left. I paddle out, saying hi to Roy first, then giving KK a man-love hug, dismounted off the board.

#

     It’s definitely a day for love and not for surfing. It’s small. Typical drowned-out high tide with the waves only breaking close to shore. On top of that, it’s a little crowded, crowded for jack shit. Roy’s scoring. There aren’t many turns available, but he pumps and gets down the line, milking every last drop. I sit on the outside and get two immediate waves, but they moosh out towards the inside. I catch a left way on the inside. It’s my best ride of the morning.

     KK introduces me to his pal Daiche from Metro Café. He’s a Japanese wind surfer ripper, but today’s just not the ideal for any kind of ripping. Soon Dais shows up, and I get a chance to catch up with him too. KK wants to hear the Briana story, so I tell him what I can in between waves.

     It’s nice to be back in the water, but we are definitely lacking swell. I’m worried that Briana is waking up without me, bored at the house, so I say my goodbyes and head on home. I didn’t get to see CC or Cheryl, but I hope to catch them next time. Sometimes, the waves are of less importance though, and it’s all about the company. Welcome back, Klaude.