DAYS OF THE ZIPPY FISH PT.4, SUN 28OCT2012 MOR

Loc: 26th

Crew: Christina

Time: 0730-0930

Conditions: 1-2 FT, high tide, offshore, inconsistent, empty, sunny, warm.

     Last night my best friend Manolo, Sebastian, and Tim went to a friend’s Halloween party. I couldn’t go because I had some school assignments to take care of. As of right now, it’s school first and surf second. I’m lucky that I can even have as much time for Briana, surf, and myself as it is.

     I planned to meet Klaude at 26^th early to make up for missing each other yesterday, but I went to sleep at 0200.

#

     Again, my room is so fucking cold. I’m remembering how waking up cold can affect one’s decision to surf in the morning. I snooze until 0700, and then I quickly grab my gear in a stupor and head out the door. When I start my car I realize I forgot my phone. Fuck it. I’ll be all right without it.

     I’m stoked that there’s free parking at the top of the hill—Manhattan Beach isn’t gonna get my quarters this weekend! The lineup looks empty with just a few wetsuits here and there. I already have my wetsuit on, so I slap on some Vertra and walk down the hill. Not only do I not see Klaude’s car, but I don’t see many cars at all. There are two empty spaces at the bottom of the hill by the lifeguard towers, prime parking. Motherfucker.

     Standing at the sand, I see that none of the DRC is here. Maybe Klaude’s coming later, I’m thinking. The waves are breaking close to shore. A few locals are there. Usually they’d be on their shorter, performance boards, but today they’re on logs. I paddle out with patience in mind, and it pays off. The waves are long and mooshy like yesterday but a little smaller. Still, I manage to position myself inside the shoulder for a fast, late take-off. Just when the wave looks perfectly shaped for a turn is when it’s turning into shorepound. I kickout just in time to avoid being body slammed on the sand.

     I paddle for the next wave again, but one of the local guys is paddling for it too on my outside, saying, “Go, go!” and smiling while doing so.

     “Go for it!” I say as I back out.

     He does go for it. He’s a familiar face. He catches the short ride all the way to the sand. I’d rather not be greedy on a day when there are barely any waves.

     There’s about eight of us out there, but most of the guys are new faces, just learning. One guy is teaching his buddy how to surf. Another guy gives me a thumbs up after a ride, even though I haven’t seen him catch one wave yet. Even though this place can be crowded and competitive sometimes, the overall energy here is good, better than Porto.

     After the first hour, things come do a dismal halt. I think about leaving when I notice Christina on the shore doing her yoga stretches. I wave. She waves back.

     I figure I’ll get a little face time with her, but she stretches for a LONG ASS TIME. Once she finally gets to the water, we catch up on life. I ask her about work, and she asks me about Bri. We talk about our plans to head to Indo. For Thanksgiving she has nothing going on, so I offer her to spend it with my family if she wants, but I give her the disclaimer: all we do is eat, get full, and sit around the T.V. afterwards. I assure her that she has many holiday options with the DRC.

     We also talk about our annual Christmas dinner which we’re both looking forward too.

     In the last hour I catch two waves, one of them my last for the session. I wave goodbye, and Christina heads north towards Porto.

#

     Once I get home I see that Klaude called at 0706 and left a v-mail at 0709. I check it. He says, “Surf report for the morning,” he says, “is fucking terrible. Don’t even bother. I’m leaving!”

     My best friend also tells how last night “was the shit.” He says, “Tim came through last night with a fake baby on his back, Sebastian had the santa suit on, and Malcolm was there in a soccer referees outfit. There were animals out there, but GOOD animals! I should’ve been pushy Manolo last night. I know you got a lot on your plate, but I should’ve got you out there.”

     I tell him I wish I could’ve gone and how I got a lot of studying done last night. Right now, unfortunately, it’s one ear out the other. I have to be selfish. This first semester of grad school isn’t easy, and I can’t fall behind. If I do I’m FUCKED.

     I milked the surf as much as I could this weekend. They say there’s a WNW swill coming in, bringing a little pulse to the South Bay. I hope I can get on it before work this weekend.