Wednesday, February 6, 2013

IF DON IS HERE . . ., FRI 01FEB2013 MOR




Loc: 45th Street
Time: 0830-0945
Crew: Solo
Conditions: 2-3 FT, walled.

Sitting here blogging, recalling
What I hardly can
The issue is
Insignificance

In the lineup, I’m thinking . . .
If Don Kadowaki is here, then
It must be that bad
At least
At his local spot
Just down the road
Where
He rules.

Dentist appointment at ten
Got here at eight
Don’t be late
My session is cut short
To
An hour and a half.
Walls . . .
When’s the last time I had myself a peak?
Back in the day it seemed easy as buying a peach
Shaped like an ass
But this onshore wind
Takes off the glass
I made up those last two lines
In fact
The conditions are decent
Sunny
Slightly offshore
But really
Really
REALLY
WHERE ARE THE PEAKS?
My wave of the day
A left
Like an acquaintance
Friendly enough but not a friend
Looked like it had a shoulder

However . . .
The training value was there
Fast, standing up
Pop up
Bottom turn
Point nose down the line
Lip throwing over
Pull in
I make it in time
To . . .
Get clamped inside
But
It felt good
My timing was on
I pumped
Tried to fit
I did
At least
For That
Second.

     I make it to the dentist in time. I tell her to excuse the sunblock on my face because I just came from the beach
     “Oh, you surf?” she says.
     “Yeah.”
     “Oh my, that water must be so cold.”
     “It is.”

2 comments:

  1. writing in prose? or just feeling like robert frost for the day?

    like.

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  2. Loving my poetry class this semester. It's so nice to dip my hands into something else besides prose: short story, novel, etc. Condensed material, but poetry is not really my thing, just fun to play with it. I like using enjambment, taking advantage of the line breaks. This is also useful for older sessions I can't remember. Just moments and thoughts at that moment. For the first time in years, I haven't been this stoked to write. In fact I have a poem without you, it's called "The Dick that Rocks the Pussy."

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