ONE WAVE ONE TURN, THU14FEB2013 MOR

Loc: El Porto

Conditions: 2-3 FT, scattered peaks, sunny, inconsistent, crowded.

     I do the same thing as yesterday: cruise through Porto, go further south, compare, and come back to Porto. I really wanted to surf at my other spot. I just need some different energy, to see some friendly faces—the people that I (somewhat) know, at least know enough to say hi and have some small talk with. But I couldn’t paddle out there. It was just     terrible.  Sandbars are just better at Porto in the South Bay.

     However, I score. Yup. On Highland and 42^nd, a place that I never score a parking space at. Well, I get lucky. Maybe someone left to work, I don’t know. I suit up, grab my board, send out a text, and trot down the hill between the million-dollar homes.

     The surf has tapered down considerably, and the crowd . . . it’s just a hair less crowded than yesterday, but the surf is inconsistent, which means   well

     it might as well be just as crowded as yesterday anyway.

     I try to stay in front of 42^nd St., but there’s this weird thing going on with the current. A little rip starts, and it sucks out and south, only if you’re right by the bathrooms. I keep getting caught in this.

     There aren’t too many waves with shape, at least from my perspective. But then I look towards the inside, and guys are just finishing off these long ass rides. The waves always look better “over there.” I go a bit north towards 45^th but still don’t get anything. There are some chances, but guys are already on them. Yesterday I lucked out, but not so much today.

     A similar thing happens, where one guy goes on the first wave of the set. We’re alone, but the second wave breaks a little too far out. My only chance to get it is to paddle into it late, and I end up so deep that I can’t make the section; another guy on my outside does.

     I get one right, and it’s small, not even three feet, but I pump, clear the section, and pull off one awkward backhand snap. It’s not pretty but it’s all she gives me.

     All I can do is watch the other guys, whoever’s in the right spot, get their waves. I watch thinking, Fuck, I could use one of those right about now.