Loc:
Manhattan Beach
Time:
0815-0930
Crew: Solo
Conditions:
2-3 FT, sunny, warm air, cold water, offshore, mid-to-high tide, slow but fun.
Parking is a bitch on Thursdays because of
the street cleaning, but I’ve lucked out somehow and found a parking spot. I
can’t remember the first time that I surfed here at this spot, but I’m glad to
take a break from Porto. Sometimes you just need some different energy.
I make my walk down. This late,
second-shift morning is an ideal South Bay day. The blue ocean to the blue sky
is flawless without a cloud. Malibu and Santa Monica lie in the distance; even
the haze of smog is light and faint. My feet sink in soft, beige sand while my
shadow stays close to its source, under the young sun. The air is warm, but
there’s still something crisp about the atmosphere; it’s the blue.
The first shift has cleared out, but the
second shifters are thin. Only Roy, some chick, and some other locals to the
north are the only surfers here.
The water still feels like it’s winter. My
back muscles are out of tune on my paddle out. It’s just been a long time, and
I’ve been inconsistent. A set approaches when I’m halfway out. I see Roy
paddling for it. He’s to my left (south), but I’m on his inside. He stands up
and pumps. I duckdive, hoping not to ruin his wave. When I resurface, we’re
right next to each other.
“Wooooooh!” he says while shaking his hair
away from his face. “Oh my God, did you see that barrel?”
“No, I didn’t. I was worried that I’d be in
your way.”
“Yeah I know. I was thinking I didn’t want
to hit you.”
I continue to paddle out while he returns
to his friend, who is cheering him on about his ride. I can’t believe how empty
it is, especially on a day like this with pristine conditions. Even though the
tide is about to peak and slow things down, I’d rather be here.
Some waves start to roll in. Roy paddles
but scratches out. Too small. The next wave swings wide, and I’m right on the
shoulder. I turn and go.
“Go, Matt!” says Roy, from the outside.
It’s a left. I paddle, pop up, and pump
down the line, but it’s a closeout. I head back.
“How was it?” asks Roy.
“Eh, it was good. Fun.” Why shit on his
session?
The next wave has better shape, and I
manage to get one turn before it closes out. Just then, Mike the Vietnam Vet
shows up. He rides this 1st Cavalry board, which is ironic because I
used to serve in the Cavalry in the active army, and that patch has been the
subject of discussion too many times in my military career. I wonder if the
local surfers even know what the emblem on his board means.
He paddles up to me and talks about his new
board, how it’s smaller and easier to duckdive. He turns and goes on a small
wave that bogs out on the inside. He paddles back and says, “It’s too deep over
there.”
He’s right. The high tide is slowing things
down, but there are still some decent pulses here and there. I get some more waves.
They are all single shot, one turners, but I can’t complain; I’m having more
fun than yesterday.
I call the session early because I still
have school today, but it was nice to get out of bed and start the day off right
with a surf. I need to get back into the swing of things.
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