Loc: Middles
Time:
1500-1700
Crew:
Khang, J, Dais, Al, and Klaude
Conditions:
4 FT+, glassy, high-mid tide,
consistent, crowded.
Despite the onshore wind, Churches looks
fun. Initially we had planned again for Uppers, but . . . that’s not gonna
happen. With a stomach full of Sonics, and a long drive back, we are all about
the hit-and-run session. Churches looks so fun. Not that many guys are out, and
there seems to be enough waves for everyone. Cheryl joins us, but she takes a
nap on the beach while we paddle out. She’s calling it a trip.
We paddle out just south of the main peak.
J and I scratch on a couple waves, and then Khang again. Man, he just gets this
special delivery, a good down-the-line ride, a four footer; it just comes right
to him. He gets it, taking it all the way to shore, pretty much by where we
parked.
J is next. Dais too. I keep working my way
north until I’m at the main peak. Al gets some good ones. I see him on so many,
just going right, and me pulling out of the way. Even Klaude gets his share. Me
. . . fuck, I’m struggling again. I don’t know what’s wrong with me.
The crowd gets thicker, and the main peak
gets too much for me to handle. There is one wave though, right in the thick of
it. I have to pass so many waves for the longboarders, but I draw the lucky
wave. I’m on the outside with time to spare, but two guys are paddling for it
too. “Go, Matt,” says Klaude. I turn and start paddling, going purposely deep.
A guy is just on my outside. He’s going for it too. I can’t just give up the
wave, so I kick, scrape, and pop up. I’m up, and the guy is still on it. I
wait. He’s still not getting off.
I yell, “Woooooh!” but not in a motivating
manner. He kicks out, and I get my set wave of the afternoon.
Back at the lineup, Klaude says, “Man,
hungry-hungry hippos out there.”
#
Dais, J, and I paddle towards Mons Pubis,
where it is nothing but walls. I mean, solid walls, just unrideable. I get
caught on the inside, facing long rows of whitewash. I’m beached, drained,
frustrated. This hasn’t been the easiest of surf trips for me. For me the best
thing has been the company, not the surf, but everyone else has scored, which
is fine with me. I work my way towards Churches, passing Khang who’s still
sitting with the pack. “You gonna call it soon?” he asks.
I tell him that I’m going for one more. We had
surfed about two hours. Back at the car, the crew leaves one by one. Embraces
are exchanged. I thought everyone had a shitty session like me, but that’s not
so. Guys are stoked, talking about some good ones they got. I smile back and
mask my frustration. So long as my buddies score, I’m happy.
Al and I had originally planned on sushi,
but we’re more tired than we are hungry. We plan to eat somewhere in the South
Bay for dinner. Khang and Dais say they’ll join. So we end up at Alejo’s on
Lincoln Boulevard, chowing down. I’m so surfed out.
#
30MAR2013
SAT
I just saw Rick this morning. He said his
brother and Gary’s son, both connected guys in the surf industry, have taken
measures to keep their eyes out for the boards. Rick’s not sore. I’ve actually
been worried that he may have been a little upset at me, and then again, that’s
just my personality to think something stupid like that I guess. I’m happy to
see that he’s okay; his bro’s gonna give him a loaner, but of course nothing
will replace his beloved boards.
This evening Al calls me. He says he looked
at the pics that Hideki had posted from our surf trip. He’s so stoked. All he
can talk about is how much fun we had. And when I look back. .. he’s right. I
mean, yes, we did get robbed pretty much, but we did have a lot of fun. To
think I was paranoid that we had too many people, that people wouldn’t get
along, and everyone did just fine. Good energy, love basically. And the surf. .
. Even though I had some frustrating sessions, everyone had a blast. I tell Al
that I can’t wait to do it again. He can’t either. As Klaude said last trip, it’s
rare, to score like we have been is rare, especially with a good crew of
people. He’s right, but even if we don’t score next time, I’m happy just to be
surrounded by my people with food, a campfire, and good energy. Much mahalos to
everyone that helped make this trip what it was. Fuck the negative, I’ll
cherish this weekend forever.
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