Loc: Old
Mans
Crew: Hideki
Conditions:
2-4 FT+, glassy, semi crowded, consistent.
The guys are taking forever to come back
from their session. I am so hungry and can’t wait for them, so I tear into a
chili and Mexican rice MRE that’s been in my car for over a year. I fucking
MREs. I only eat them in the field when I’m starving to death, but today is an
exception, and gawd damn does it taste DELICIOUS!!!
Later, Al and I want to buy everything at
the grocery store. That’s what happens when you’re hungry: everything looks
good. We keep dinner simple, buying tortillas, carne, green onions, and
cilantro. We also restock on beers. We look like a gay couple shopping, but . .
. so do Rick and Gary, who are going through the same decisions themselves.
When we get back to the site, we see that
Hideki’s already there. After we unload and relax for a bit, Hideki asks if we’re
gonna surf again. Rick says he’s tired and saving himself for tomorrow. So does
Gary. Al . . . he’s done too. After his long ass drive and couple hours of
sleep, he is D-U-N as well. The surf still looks good. I wonder if I just
needed more board out there. I tell Hideki that I’ll join him, and I ask Rick
for his yellow Zamora Fish.
Hideki himself has a newly acquired
surfboard, one he bought off of Craigslist last weekend. It has lime green trim
around the rails with a wooden deck; it looks interesting. We head down and
paddle out. I tell him where we had sat at the last session. Now the swell’s
building further, and a lot of the sets break unexpectedly on the outside,
where we have to race out and duckdive them.
I initially tell myself that I’m gonna sit
north and catch the wide lefts, but . . . I fall victim to the same mentality
as earlier. The waves here seem to be slowing down because of the tide. I go
back to the top of the wave.
Even though I’m on the fish, I’m scratching
out. It’s still hard to get in. I sit on the inside, and the sets start
breaking on the outside. A lot of guys are deceived by the fat peaks, scratching
out.
#
So this is going to be a short post. The
waves I got didn’t materialize into much. I get a couple waves, but most of
them lack shape or I just fail to ride them right. Also, the longboarders. They
seem to be in all the right spots. I’m in a weird funk. Hideki leaves soon
after the sun goes down. I try to stick it out, stubborn, waiting for one last
ride. Me and one other guy are forced to do the paddle of shame in the
darkness.
Back at camp, after showering, J shows up.
So does Rick’s brother John A. and his son Fisher. AND . . . my childhood
friend Sebastian. Holy shit, we have a FULL crew on the first night. Dinner’s
good. It hits the spot, and we got lots of beer. There’s no need to sleep in
the tent, for Seba has the trailer. The
rest of the guys are coming in tonight and throughout the day tomorrow. I worry
that there won’t be enough room for everyone.
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