SMALL DAYS PT. 2, TUE02APR2013 MOR

 

Loc: Old Mans

Crew: Bri

Conditions: 1-3 FT, glassy, clean, sunny, cool.

     As I’ve said, QT with Bri is my priority before I get cracking to some homework. I’m lucky that Bri likes to camp and surf; she don’t give a shit about taking a shit in the woods, not that we have to, but I’m glad she doesn’t.

     We have a campsite on the beach with a fire pit just for a day, but we’re here to make the most of it, first with this morning session and then again later.

     We look at Churches first, which is . . . well, pretty small, especially since we’ve caught low tide again. But it does look rideable. Then we go to Old Mans and compare. It looks a little more consistent, and since I love lefts, sometimes it’s hard to turn down Old Mans. “Where do you want to surf?” I ask.

     “Old Mans,” she says.

     So, I guess I’m a little guilty because I had asked but I actually want to surf Churches. It’s one of those situations when you ask someone but then you’re hoping they answer the question your way. Anyway, to fight my dickhead tendencies, I say, “Old Mans it is!”

     Surprisingly, the wind is just barely swinging south, but still glassy for the most part with enough east in it to still call it offshore. What luck again, as it’s so consistent. Yes, small, barrages of two foot waves. The lefts are short, but can you really complain when there are so many of them? It’s a buffet of short, small, clean rides. There’s not much I can do on this Zippy anyway, but it’s fun and easy, like longboarding. Again, I play with the lines, practicing more floaters now, and trying to see if I can add some accent to my turns. Bri always does much better at Old Mans. It’s a mental thing for her, I believe, because I’ve spoiled her. I’ve taken her here . . . almost a year ago. Yup. This is where she really learned to surf. Something so chill and relaxed about these waves: they are so perfect for the summer in boardshorts, stoned and slightly buzzed off some Shocktop beers. Summer, almost. And, yeah, that’s all we’re really missing on this morning: hot weather.

     We surf for a couple of hours with the light, Tuesday crowd. Lucky Surfline says it’s shitty out. That’s why it’s so empty.

     We head to La Tiendita for some post surf grub. Bri is “treating.” Sigh . . . it’s always nice to have a chick that pays for shit, or that’s willing to pay for shit, ya know? Mexican Machaca plates over reflections of the last two days of good surf. It’s beginning to feel like spring break.