With my Lost board needing a repair, I know
that I won’t be traveling to Machines today. I sleep in until about 0630 and
then go to the kitchen to eat some instant oatmeal. Sonia is in here. She says
that she was kept up all night from a bad rash on her legs, breasts, and arms.
It was so bad that she had to find some ice in the middle of the night to calm
the itching. I tell her that that was me a day ago. I couldn’t sleep because I
was so itchy, so at one in the morning I had opened up my laptop and started
writing. My rash is behind my knees and in the bends of my arms, opposite my
elbows. Also behind my armpits, the skin is raised and sensitive. When I go
back to my room, Al’s scratching his ass. He was scratching it all last night.
I thought he was jacking off, but when I didn’t hear him moan, I knew he was
itching.
“I think we have bed bugs,” he says. “Bed
bugs, or it’s the fuckin’ jelly fish.” Oh, I forgot to mention. There are a lot
of jelly fish here, but nothing life threatening, just a bunch of little ones
that sting a bit, more of a nuisance than extreme pain. “We should find some
Benadryl,” Al continues. “I saw a bottle of it at compound one. Somebody bought
some somewhere.”
Al leaves to go talk to ask around about
the crème to relieve his itch, while I furiously type away and try to catch up
with this blog business, this business for my whopping twenty five followers,
for the five or six people that will comment. I thank you all, and at the same
time, this is for myself. Yes, so I can remember every detail of this trip,
twenty years from now I can tell Al that on this very day he was scratching his
ass all night long.
Al gains intel that they sell Benadryl at
the apotek or pharmacy, but before we head out, we stop at Compound One to drop
off my damaged board to Edo. He takes it willingly. Holding the board and
looking at the dimensions, he says, “This board too big for you.”
“Yeah, I know,” I say. Fuck, I want to tell
him that “The guy who I kind of look like” recommended the board’s dimensions,
and that it’s supposed to work well in big barrels, but this point, who am I
kidding. The board works fine. It’s me.
We cruise around town looking for the
apotek. No one has Benadryl. We hit Padangs for lunch, but the lunch crowd
already beat us. Only meager cuts of chicken curry are left over. The curry
sauce has been drained of the good stuff, and now all that’s left is oil and
grease. We’re disappointed, but it’s too late to turn back now because the
owner’s daughter has already scooped us our rice on two plates.
Afterwards we head to the Rajawali
restaurant, the place with wifi. I order an avocado smoothie while Al plays
with the internet on his phone. He leaves a half an hour later, and I finally
post all my blogs and pics to catch up with everything. Most of my email isn’t
important. I swear, you order one penis pump, and now you get all kinds of
random email. I get to chat with Briana, which is good to let her know I’m
alive. Her sister will be visiting, and they’ll be partying it up together in my
tiny studio. Shan messages me and lets me know that surf’s been good back home.
I don’t bother to check what’s going on with the NBA or ASP. Lastly, I purchase
my return ticket from Jogjya to Jakarta for 17 June.
By the time I park my bike at the compound,
other mopeds are zipping past with surfboards loaded, heading towards the river
mouth. I go in the room and tell Al that we should head out.
When we reach the surf, we see that the
waves are small. Today’s swell is supposed to be five-to-eight feet, but it’s
missing Choco Point. The waves are more like three-to-four and soft, save for
the take off spot at the point, which is a little racy and good for some turns.
We take the easy route, walking to the
lineup and paddling out. Six Indo kids are already on it. They speak among
themselves, motioning towards us, as we approach. Who knows what they’re saying
about us. I head more towards the shoulder before I start taking their waves.
On the beach, the German onslaught has arrived.
Nothing is really swinging wide. Everyone’s
at the point. A wave does swing my way, and an Indo kid that had just got a
wave turns back around on his way to the lineup and takes the wave. Son of a
bitch, I’m thinking. Here I am trying to practice good etiquette, letting the
local groms get on it first before I paddle out, and then this guy is still
greedy.
I paddle towards the top of the wave and
insert myself in the lineup, but then “the guy who I kind of look like” shows
up, so I go back to the shoulder. I really don’t feel like surfing close to
him.
And with the poor surf positioning that I’ve
placed myself in, watching everyone else catch waves on a scant day of surf, a
bad mood sets in. I’m putting on a straight face for the benefit of my friend
Al. I don’t want to be a downer, and I’ve held a lot of my thoughts and
feelings inside about the whole thing with “the guy” upstairs, but Al leaves on
Sunday and it’s already Tuesday. I wish I could switch my plane ticket, but Al
already checked, and it’s about $750 to do so. Maybe I just need to go to Bali.
I don’t know, but I just feel awkward staying here now after wearing out my
welcome early. It’s too late to be salvaged.
Al gets some decent waves from the point.
Ana paddles out with Sonia, and they float around the shoulder with me or head
to the top of the wave, disappearing and reappearing at different times.
At about 1730, I tell Al that I’m going for
one more. All my waves have been soft, or I’ve been too far behind the section
on the sets. I had tried cutting back in the pocket to keep momentum, but I
kept getting left behind. One legit floater that I landed is my only claim to
fame for the day. On my last wave, I just go for it. Fuck the pocket. I pump
and pump as far as I can on the wave so I can get as close to shore as
possible, and I realize that the wave, on this small swell, stands up better
further down the line. For the first time this afternoon, I’m able to connect
three turns. On this smaller Tokoro, my turns feel sharper and crispier. I
straighten out, lie on my board, and ride the whitewash all the way in until my
fins hit the sand. That ride reminds me that the wave is the only thing I need
to rely on. So long as I’m surfing, I can survive this trip.
Vagabond Friends:
It starts raining hard. Al and I are
hunkered in our room, hoping that it stops soon so we can grab chow. There’s a
knock on the door. “Come in!” I yell.
“Halo,” says Sonia, as she peeks in with
her freckled face, TV-screen glasses, and red hair. She leaves back to Germany
on 6 June. She had told us that she works the ski resorts and travels here
during the off season. “We go grab the others for dinner?”
“Yes,” I say. I look at Al. He nods. “Give
us three minutes.”
Ten minutes later, we’re on our bikes. The
rain stings as we drive into it. At Compound One, Grant suggests that we go to
a restaurant right around the corner since it’s wet out.
Ana, Sonia, Camille, Al, Grant, and I show
up to the nicest restaurant I’ve seen since I’ve been in Indo-Napili. There’s
TV, tables, and the low tables where you have to sit on the floor. Camille
leads us towards those.
We order some large Bin Tangs all around.
My mie gorang ayam only costs 10000 IR, but they get us on the beer, which
brings my bill up to 60000 IR. Still only six bucks, but somewhat expensive
compared to what we usually get.
There’s something about my farts that make
people laugh. That, my booby dance, and me and Al’s gay, military humor. I whip
out my serviceless iPhone and show grant some of my best shit pics, and he cops
over laughing, barely able to breathe. I fart again, not noticing that a random
German guy at the next table is right behind me, about to ask to borrow the
ketchup. The call is to get more beer. When I was in Bali two years ago, I
couldn’t drink at all because I got a latent form of tuberculosis from my Iraq
deployment, and they had given me some nine-month medication that disallowed me
from having one drop of alcohol, so . . . why not go for it tonight.
We hit the market to buy martabek, and then
to the Indomaret for beer. Back at our compound, Grant has the music going on
Al’s speakers. Grant calls Gayun and asks him to deliver us some Arak, which is
Indonesian, homemade rice wine (I think).
At half past midnight, I’m gone. Not gone
as in drunk, just immobilized. Everyone is smoking and talking. The smell of
cigarettes makes me nauseas, but I don’t want to be rude and leave, but I give
in. I exit stage left, lie on my bed, and turn off the lights. Ten minutes
later, the door opens. “Come on, mate,” says Grant. He pulls me out of bed and
leads me back outside. “On you go.” He pats my ass repeatedly as I walk back to
the hang out area. It’s funny how people are a little weird around gay humor at
first, but eventually they can’t resist and put on a homo show worse than yours.
I’m lying back against the wooden frame,
bordering the platform. I can’t even comprehend the conversations around me.
Gayun tells us to lower the volume a little so as not to disturb the guests.
Nausea returns. Why am I such a pussy? I’m representing America here among the
Germans, English, and Indonesian, but I can’t hang; I’m fading out.
I lie on the middle of the rug on my
stomach. Camille is nice enough to grab one of the pillows there and puts it in
front of my face.
“He’s done,” says a voice.
I stand up, walk down the platform, and
rest my arms and my head on the railing. The party is still going strong, but
I’m not. I should say goodbye, but I don’t want the ridicule, the “Matt, don’t
be a pussy,” that I know is cocked and loaded in Al’s mouth. I turn and head
straight for my room. No one objects. Shutting the door behind me, I lie on my
bed. The AC in here is cool. We are supposed to surf in the morning. Not sure
what’s gonna happen with that now. Outside the laughter becomes faint, like the
sound of a distant, preschool playground.




Aww baby, your a light weight now. Welcome to the club :)
ReplyDeletenice write up.... it's ok to be a lightweight
ReplyDeletesounds like some great people that are around you!!!
Hey bro, I'm all caught up now. Don't let your brother bring you down. Sever if you have to. You're blood. You'll grow back.
ReplyDeleteHe's got issues that he needs to let go. You're in a better place than that and you can't let [bad] blood affect you. Rise above.
Briana, I don't know what happened to me that night, but I did NOT represent well for the U.S.A.
ReplyDeleteKK, you'd love it out here and socializing with all the well-traveled people. Japanese surfers here too.
Whiffle, thank you for your kind words. My battle buddy Al leaves tomorrow morning, so . . . yah, I will do my best to have fun. As long as I'm in the water I'll be all right. Thank you again for following. See you at Porto in about two weeks.
you know how i feel about japanese surfers... no bueno!! lol
ReplyDeleteHaha, well . . . these guys were okay. A lot of people were complaining about them at Choco Point though. But the Japanese pros at Machines were pretty cool!
ReplyDelete