WELCOME BACK TO MANHATTAN BEACH (Part Two), THU20JUN2013 MOR

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Crew: Christina

Conditions: 2-4 FT, offshore, consistent, scattered peaks, crowded.

     Bri’s not with me because she had caught a cold after yesterday’s surf. With our anniversary coming up next week, we agree that it’s best that she takes care of herself and prepare for camping.

     Rick shoots me a text at 0530. He’s at Rosecrans. I drive by it and take a look. It looks fun. He’s with Gary and Dave T., but . . . there’s something about the spot where I like to surf at. I’m more of a familiar face there, cool with the locals, and the energy there is just better.

     This dawn patrol business. It’s not Java, but I missed it. It’s nice to live so close to the ocean. From the luxury of inside my vehicle, this surf experience is much different from Java. I miss riding my moped, but this whole driving thing . . . it’s also nice. It’s also nice when you don’t have to spend twenty minutes looking for free parking too, and there’s a spot right here just outside of the metered lots.

Whoa:

     Manhattan Beach. I’m walking towards the sand, downhill in my boardshorts and dirty rashguard that I had worn at Choco Point. The rashguard was once white. Now it’s brown.

     Wearing a wetsuit yesterday was cool, but the water felt manageable. Maybe I can trunk it today and survive.

     Back to Manhattan Beach. . . I’ve experienced good days here, maybe even a few epic ones, truly memorable sessions that begin with, “Do you remember that one day when. . .”

     The South Bay is best in the winter, but before me is a phenomenon. The surface conditions are much cleaner than yesterday, and the peaks look like they have more power behind them. Surfline was right, forecasting today to be two-to-four feet because that’s exactly what it’s at.

     At 0600, the best sandbars are already crowded. The word is out. People know it’s good today.

#

     I paddle out in front of the brick house because Oscar is there, and it’s less crowded. There’s also an older chick surfing with him, probably a local but I’ve never seen her before.

     The water on my shins is warm, but once the water splashes on my midsection, I wonder if I’ve made a wise decision with my trunks.

     I say hello to Oscar, and we both comment on how good the surf is today. At the main sandbar in front of the lifeguard tower, a regular footer is killing it on the lefts, going backhand. He’s riding the wave well, getting snaps off of the top, going top to bottom without losing momentum.

     With the surf this good, I’m eager, too eager. I take my first waves in rapid succession. Most of them closeout. It’s still a little racy.

     Choco Point is a long paddle, but it’s been a while since I’ve surfed beach break. I have to duckdive my way back to the lineup. It’s more work than I remember, and I tire myself out.

     I tell myself to slow down, sit in the lineup for a little while, and wait for a good one.

     The surf here is just different from Choco Point. I was spoiled with a long, point break wave. Here, it’s like rapid fire. Not super long rides, but a lot of one-to-two turn waves.

     I’ve developed a low stance on my left as I’m pumping down the line, like I’m setting up for something big, but my surfing lacks mustard on the final, closeout sections. I try to finish with deep carves, really putting my rail into them, but they just don’t come out right.

     I’m covering good distance down the line though. That’s at least some improvement. On a wave that has a really long section, I use my Motorboat to its full advantage, pumping with speed and pulling off two floaters, all the way into a different group of surfers. Even Ross, another long-haired local vet says, “Hey, you got a good one.” I smile back, converse a little, completely avoiding anything Java related.

     I’m surfing okay, I guess. No three-turners today. I get two at the most with a lot of single shots.

#

     Christina shows up just before 0900. I paddle towards the main peak where she’s sitting at. “I guess it’s just us,” I say.

     “I know. Khang said he was going to come out.” We both look around, confirming the rest of the crew’s absence.

     I surf a little longer, waiting for that wave. I’m guilty of expecting massive results, that I’d come home a different surfer, but I’m not. I still struggle, adapting to my beloved home break. Is it the board or is it me? (The “board” . . . how lame to blame my equipment?)

     But I’m grateful that I’ve been welcomed back with good surf, and I need to adjust to it. Adjust . . . it’s the mantra for my first week back.