Loc: 26th
Time: 0800-1000
Crew: Bri,
Todu
Conditions:
1-2 FT, overcast, onshore
I’m optimistic from Highland Avenue. There
looks like there’s some inside waves working. The left south of 26th
is working. The main peak in front of 26th and Brick House is too. I’m
stoked and have to make the decision of surfing my MB Too or the Mini Driver. I
choose the Lost board and throw on the quad setup.
Down on the sand, Bri chooses a gap by the
30th Street Tower. The surf here is inconsistent and small. Two, old
longboarder chicks sit on the outside. Even they have a hard time.
We paddle to the brick house. I see Todu in
the lineup where the crowd is. Shan’s there too. They wave.
The surf had looked good from the top of
the hill, but the surf is small, or it’s just gotten small. The wind even turns
onshore. I still catch some waves but struggle to turn. More people come out to
surf on the second shift. Todu says it was empty earlier.
I’m sure that San Onofre is working right
now, Huntington even. I bet that’s where some of the boys went.
After we surf we head to Mandy’s for breakfast.
Sitting there with my Mega Skillet Scramble and French Toast in front of me, I’m
still glad to be home.
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