SUPPOSED TO BE SMALL, THU 02JAN2014

 

Loc: El Porto

Crew: Bri and Rick

Time: 0730-0900

Conditions: 3-4 FT+, walled.

     Surfline called the swell 2-3 FT+ today because it’s fading, but as Rick, Bri, and I look out at the surf, we see that it’s still walled and thumping. Yesterday at Bolsa was an okay sesh, but I’m not in the mood for walled conditions again. I need fucking shape, some shoulders that I can get some turns on.

     But Rick’s been surfing every day this week without any battle buddies, and I’m committed to paddle out with him today. Randy had said that he wanted me to let him know if I was gonna surf today, but he didn’t even paddle out last time, so I doubt he’d want to paddle out today.

     As Bri and I warm up on the shore, I begin to worry for Bri. I know that these conditions are out of her comfort zone. I can be a hard ass and say that these conditions are good for her progression, but I also want her to have fun, which these conditions are not.

     I time the sets correctly, and Bri and I make it out unscathed. My hair is still dry. However, it doesn’t take long for an outsider to break, which sends everyone scrambling towards the blue horizon.

     It’s a typical, sunny day, but the warm winter we’ve been having in SoCal is atypical. Despite the walls, some of the smaller waves have better shape on the inside. Rick’s way on the outside, scratching through the high-tide waves. I’m on the inside, thinking that he can’t get it, but somehow his bionic paddle gets him into it. When he comes back, another surfer says, “Dude, you had to paddle hard for that!”

     Bri manages to take advantage of the smaller waves too, scoring on some long rights, but before long we’re all paying for it.

     There’s a cleanup set that just about takes everyone out. I see Bri taking a wave on the head. I’m duckdiving, not covering much ground but still managing. Meanwhile, I see Bri turn her board towards shore and ride the whitewash in. I don’t blame her.

     The waves keep coming. It must be like a six-wave set because I’m paddling forever just to get back to the outside. When I reach safety, I turn around to see Bri paddling back out again. She’s a tough motherfucker.

     And even though the conditions are walled, I still get a two-turn left. I’m stoked at the end of that one. To connect two turns on a day like this is pretty damn good.

     There are also people in the water who shouldn’t really be out in these conditions. One chick is on a neon-green fish. She’s lying on her board a little too far in the back. Two other chicks are out here, and they’re just hanging out. I don’t see them go for anything.

     After an hour and a half, Rick is done. So is Bri. I try to finish the session with a good wave, but I end up with a closeout.

     Walking back through the parking lot, I see a chick standing by the trunk of her car, watching the surf. She has a pretty cool stance with her hoodie and glasses. I take my time changing, shooting the shit with Rick. Driving out of the lot, the same chick is barely getting into her wetsuit. Sometimes I wonder if people are more interested in the image of surfing than surfing itself.