IF IT’S THIS CROWDED . . ., TUE 22APR2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Time: 0630-0900

Conditions: 3-4 FT, inconsistent, overcast, crowded, light onshore.

     I surf this spot because it’s mellower and mostly because it’s less crowded than Porto, but all the high school kids also surf here in the morning before school.

     Up on the hill at my car, I feel like I have an advantage being here so early. On my drive over here, even the El Porto lot wasn’t open yet. But as I make my way down to the sand, so do all the high school kids.

     Right on cue, the SUP guys paddle out too. They call each other into waves, one after the other, unsharing. I have to sit there in silence, hearing the SUP guy ask all of his friends: “Did you go out yesterday? Ahhhh, it was INSANE!” over and over again.

     An older local dude is loud in the lineup, hooting on the high school girlies.

     I’m on my Mini Driver again, and I get a two turn right early. It feels good, like I’m proving my worth in the lineup. Don’t act like you don’t know what I mean. It’s the feeling of pulling off a nice turn at least, something that shows you know what you’re doing, that you’re not just some clueless beginner in the lineup.

     There are no gaps anywhere. I paddle away to find myself in another crowd. El Porto probably isn’t even this crowded yet because it’s early, so I’m dealing with a double-edged sword. This spot is crowded from first light to 0745 before the kids go to school, but El Porto is super crowded from 0730-as long as there are waves. If I’m dawn patrolling it, I’m not beating any crowds by surfing here.

     My last wave is another two-turn right. In two hours I get two standout rides, one in the beginning and one at the end. On that note, I had to get out. I didn’t see how I could end the session on a better note. If it’s this crowded here, I may as well be at El Porto.