THE QUOTA, FRI 11APR2014

Loc: EL PORTO, 45^th Street

Time: 1500-1700

Conditions: 1-3FT, high tide, inconsistent, swampy, sunny, onshore.

     All that matters is the quota. In the midst of junky onshore slop, all I want is to meet the quota: one good wave, one good turn. That’s it.

     The surf is crumbly and onshore, but there is surprisingly a little shape. There isn’t much of a crowd yet. The main pack hangs back at 42^nd while I paddle against the current and maintain at 45^th.

     I have the right board for small waves. All I need is at least two feet with some kind of shoulder, so long as it’s not too mooshy.

     I catch a handful of onshore crumblers, often bogging out upon cutting back, but I can at least get distance towards the inside.

     Into my second hour of surfing, the tide’s come up, and more people are paddling out for a post-work session. There’s a rippable little reform section on the inside.

     My wave of the day is a tiny wave, and on that inside section, on my frontside, I pull off a carving maneuver, whipping my tail down to the base of the wave and into the oncoming section. The carve feels fluid and smooth over a foot of water.

     Back up the hill, changing back into my clothes, I can’t help but feel short changed. My quota was reached, but I’m getting tired of these kinds of sessions. I know I’m whining, and I should be grateful for what the local surf gives me, but a surfer can only go so long before he has a GOOD session, and I’m due up.