WHEN THE WIND IS GOOD, THU 22MAY2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Time: 0745-1045

Conditions: light onshore, consistent, 2-3 FT

     I stand, sheepish, overwatching this morning’s surf. It’s that kind of morning, a morning when turning around and going straight home is feasible.

     Shan shows up. The peaks are small and drowned out by the tide. Plus it’s crowded. Everyone’s swarmed around the take-off points like ants congregated around dropped food. But the waves are rideable. Guys are out there getting good carves, milking the foamy waves all the way to shore, sticking their finishing maneuvers.

     I wonder what it would take to get my fair share of waves on a morning like this. I’d have to be a good local—smile and say good morning to all the veterans. But this is the South Bay, and when it comes to surfing, in general, there are so many egos involved that one must be “accepted” before being allowed to even say “good morning” to another surfer, especially if he’s a regular.

     We take our time changing and getting to the water. There’s no rush since the tide’s high. An hour into the session, the crowd starts to clear out. I get a few single-turn waves. The tide begins to drop, which makes the waves stand up more. And now most of the crowd is gone. I have my favorite local break all to myself. Even though the shape isn’t that great, the wind is still good, and how often do I get to surf this spot without a crowd anyway? Never. So when the conditions are good and the crowd is sparse, you have to make the call to extend the session, you have to STAY.