SAW A SHARK AND GOT OUT, SAT 21JUN2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Time: 0600-0800

Crew: Bri

Conditions: glassy, clean, 1-2 FT.

     There were rumors that the recent windswell was good, so I decided to stay local, especially since I had a camp trip scheduled the following week. As appealing as HB sounded, I didn’t want to burn the gas.

     Upon arriving at Manhattan Beach, there were small lines rolling in consistently, in front of the tower and to the north and south. I hoped that the lowering tide would make the waves stand up better as the morning went on.

     There were already surfers sitting on both sides of the tower. As small as the waves were, there were occasional sets almost three-feet. The fat peaks broke close to shore but lined up for a few pumps. I managed one left and went down the line.

     I waved at one of the locals who I know, an older guy named Jon who wears a Rastafarian rashguard. He shot me a shaka back. I meant to talk to him, but upon looking back, he was walking back onto the shore and looking behind him. Pretty soon four other guys who had been surfing with him also got out. Everyone had his eyes on the water, and I already had a feeling on what was up.

     It was one of those moments where I could’ve chosen to be a bitch and gotten out. Or, I could’ve been an idiot if my life was in danger, but I ignored the obvious warning.

     I paddled to the spot where they were all at, and then I caught another small left. Only two other guys had refused to get out. They were talking to each other, mumbling about how the other guys were bitches.

     Jon paddled back out, pointed next to him in the water, and said that there had been a shark right there. The other guys on the shore left.

     I was comfortable staying in the lineup knowing that there were a lot of other people out. A swimmer in the water was flagged down by some SUP guys who warned him about the shark. The swimmer swam closer to shore.

     I looked back at Jon. He was gone. Something had really spooked him.

     Later in the session, the waves didn’t improve much. I waited for the waves that never came.

     Out in front of me, the tip of a dorsal and tail fin poked out of the water, disturbing the surface as it wiggled past. An SUP guy raced after it and pulled out his GoPro to take pics of it. It was just a baby.