CRUMBS, WED 02JUL2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Crew: Bri

Time: 0630-0800

Conditions: Overcast, light onshore, inconsistent, 1-3FT, empty.

     As surfers, we still make the effort to dawn patrol, regardless of a tiny forecast. There are times when the forecast is off, and we score. Times when other, less dedicated, people put their trust in the surf websites and sleep in, leaving an empty lineup for unexpectedly fun conditions.

     On this morning, Bri and I hope for the same. On top of the hill, we can see that there are lines coming in. On the sand, we really see that the lines are so small that most of them are breaking inside.

     Today, the forecast is right. Those who had said, “Fuck it,” and slept in made the right call. So there are a few familiar faces in the water along with a handful of surfers who I don’t know. Even most of the SUPPERS stayed in.

     There’s an older, local vet with even length black hair. His hair’s starting to go a little grey, and it’s undeniable in his goatee. I watch him surf, and he gets some decent gems, cranking out at least one finishing turn on each one.

     The current takes the small crowd north, while I stay in front of the tower. All my rides are gutless and bogging out on the inside. Bri catches everything, going mostly straight on her waves.

     It’s so bad out here, even Don K. leaves early. Ross shows up and leaves within an hour. Sitting alone in front of the tower, a rogue wave pops up, and I’m right on the shoulder. It’s walled and racy, but I pump down the line and manage two little check turns on the open face. Grey Goatee turns around after I dismount, looking my way. A couple surfers paddle over. I get another one. Just like that after a morning of nothing, I get back to back waves on a day of crumbs.

     But after those waves, the south wind picks up, and the surf goes even more inconsistent. Leaving the water, the rest of the surfers who stay are just bobbing in the lineup like buoys. I’ve been there before, waiting for that wave that never comes.

     I may have made the wrong call by even showing up. I could’ve been in my fartsack just waking up right now, but I heeded the call and had a look for myself. Even though it didn’t look great I still paddled out. And even in the flat, uncrowded surf, I managed to catch two waves. On a day like this, it was still worth it.