HEAT WINNER, TUE 16SEPT2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach (26^th)

Crew: Randy & Klaude

Time: 0800-1000

Conditions: 4 FT+, light onshore, hot, semi consistent, uncrowded, walled.

     I took a break on Monday. My body needed it. As much as I wanted to let my cuts heal more, I felt weird not being in the water. I must.

     Randy and I head out to 26^th, timing the paddle out for when the groms leave. The waves look small, driving by the ocean on Highland Avenue. After finding free parking, we head out to the surf.

     It’s bigger than expected. There’s size but also a lot of backwash. Reaching the tower, we spot Klaude on the sand just getting out, too. What a surprise. We’re also joined by Vietnam Vet Mike and another old school vet.

     There are waves, but shape is an issue. We all rush it regardless.

     My Motorboat Too was a bad choice for boards. With my Mini Driver needing repairs, I should have at least brought out my 6’3 JS.

     It’s a wave frenzy at first. We’re all gung ho, but they wall up and suck out so fast. Upon popping up, the wave stands up and grows teeth, round with nowhere to go. Plus there’s a current. People drift all the way north to the brick house. The three of us maintain position.

     You have to be right on the shoulder for a good ride, and I get one. Pumping down the line, the section in front of me is about to close. I climb it and do my best to tag it, but I’m not gonna stick the landing. I know it. After tagging it with my tail, I bail, falling into the flats.

     There’s weird rip. The water goes from glassy to choppy and glassy all over again.

     I’m kind of over it. Klaude leaves. Mike leaves. New surfers drift into our area.

     Shan paddles out. He’s gone with the current.

     “It’s frustrating,” I say to Randy.

     “I’m surprised it’s this big. Let’s wait to see what it does.”

     So we do. We fight the current. We try to choose the best waves. The smaller ones have shape. The bigger ones close out.

     I pull into a left and get some closeout coverup. Just to get that quick barrel glimpse makes the wave worth it.

     Shan fights his way back towards us. The tide gets lower. The shape doesn’t improve.

     “One more,” I say to Randy.

     Back on shore, I’m shooting the shit with another guy who’s done. He points out a seal that’s surfing the inside waves by the brick house. It’s amazing. After a frustrating session, a seal, with its shiny slick body, is riding towards the shore on a bouncy ride, head up, focused. It swims out again and catches another one, probably having the time of his life.