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| Maturing enough to get back to basics: small can be fun, too. |
Loc: El Porto
Crew: Randy
Time:
0630-0830
Conditions:
1-2 FT+, glassy, inconsistent, crowded.
My dumb ass had told my friends about how
fun yesterday’s surf was, but as my brother and I change in the Porto lot, the
waves are a little smaller. That “little” meaning a lot since it’s barely three
feet. There are more surfers out. They sit motionless, an indication of this
morning’s inconsistency. Fuck.
Randy’s on the 6’8 NSP and I’m on the Zippi
again. Now I’m the one who’s scratching out. The peak I had had to myself
yesterday is crowded. Why? Why today when it’s smaller? Probably because a
couple people spread the word? I didn’t tell too many people.
Randy escapes the crowd and paddles over
towards 40th. Even he scratches out on some waves, but he looks good
on the ones he gets, stylish with fingers spread as he twists his torso at the
end of his frontside turns, forcing some spray off the tail.
Most of my waves are gutless, not much for
turns but for goofing off, walking towards the tip of the board to drain as
much out of the wave as possible.
We get lulls. Around 0800 we end up next to
each other again. He catches a backhand right, bottom turns, and throws a
bucket out the back on the NSP. Bri can’t turn her board like that. Neither can
I.
It’s a slow morning, but it’s interspersed
with a couple of good rides. I got to redeem myself for the cutback I had
missed yesterday. There was a point in the turn where I’d usually redirect my
board, but I followed through and got a bank off of the pocket. It was nice.
More waves like that, hopefully.
Our attitude in the parking lot is half
ass. Yeah, it wasn’t that great of a session, easily snarked at, but it wasn’t
that bad either. There was a little crowd, the waves were small, but we still
caught waves. Not a wave buffet but still surf worthy. At least we had the
right equipment.
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