LITTLE WINDOW, THU 30OCT2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach, 26^th Street

Time: 0700-0900

Conditions: 3 FT, offshore, inconsistent.

     There aren’t any high schoolers out this morning, and then I recall an email I had received, saying that there’s a surf contest at Hermosa today. Without the kids, there’s plenty of room in the lineup.

     One of the younger local rippers catches a racy left in front of the brick house. He gets a long down-the-line ride. I’m Surprised at how much the size has picked up from yesterday.

     I’m out of position and have to pass on a couple of good waves, but then I find myself in the perfect spot for a left. Today I put on the large SA-2 side fins in combination with the smaller Q-R trailers. When I pop up and get down the line, I can tell that this is a good combo setup. I get to the shoulder and wrap the board around for a tight cutback before the wave dies out.

     The waves are coming in long lines with racy tapered shoulders at the end of them, fast but rippable if you’re in the right spot. I wait for another one, but the surf turns inconsistent. More people come out. I had brought my Kainalu Fish with me, and it’s resting on the beach next to the lifeguard tower, so I catch one in and swap boards.

     This board is supposed to be my mega groveler, and instant wave catcher for small surf. However, I keep scratching out on this thing. That little bit of extra thickness that the Zippifish has makes such a huge difference. It’s much harder to catch on this board. I do get a decent left on it though, pumping down the line, pulling off a baby floater, and coming unstuck on a weak layback attempt.

     It’s SUP central this morning. SUP guys are surfing right in front of the tower. Usually they’re a little more south. It’s hard competing with them. I paddle for a left and see an SUP guy on my inside. I pull out as he says, “Go, go, go!” Too late. When he comes back, he says, “You don’t have to worry about me. I can just kick out.”

     Clear as day, I say, “Thank you.” An SUP guy who’s willing to share. Not all of them are so bad after all.

     Klaude makes it out. We shoot the shit for a little bit, but I call my session early since I had been out since 0700.

     The surf had looked so fun earlier, but it was only a small window. I should’ve been out at 0630. Even my fish didn’t really help.

     Later that night, my friend Cassady tells me that HB has been really fun. I think it’s time to change things up and drive for some good waves.