Saturday, November 1, 2014

THE WORD, TUE 28OCT2014


Loc: MB, 26th Street
Time: 0700-0900
Conditions: 3-4 FT, offshore, fast, sectiony.
     The word must’ve gotten out that it was fun yesterday. My beloved brick house peak is now overrun, and it’s not just the usual suspects. Guys who I’ve seen surf way further north, from 34th Street to Rosecrans, are here, too. Fuckin’ A.
     I try to battle it out but get frustrated and head towards the tower. Vietnam Vet Mike is out here, and he’s able to glide into waves on his longboard. I’m either pulling out for guys or out of position.
#

     Thinking back to this session, I don’t remember one memorable ride. I remember thinking about how much I need to change things up and surf a different break. 

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