FRI 23JAN2015

I can appreciate "shape" over a walled day.

Loc: Manhattan Beach, Rosecrans
Time: 0700-0830
Crew: Bri, Juan, Garr                 
Conditions: 2-3 FT+, sunny, warm, offshore
Board: Motorboat Too

     I should be on the road heading to Big Bear for my friend J’s bachelor party, but since I’ll be missing out on a massive swell this weekend, I have to get a surf in before I leave. The swell’s supposed to be tapering off, but I check 26^th Street anyway. Of course, it’s a fucking lake. Bri parks and walks towards The Strand as I’m walking back. “Let’s go meet the guys,” I say.

     When I pull into the Porto lot, a freakish rogue wave breaks at 45^th. It’s amazing what a couple miles down the beach does. But as packed as it is, I can tell that there’s a mellow energy in the air. If it were firing consistently, people would be rushing, wearing a no-bullshit face in preparation for glory. Instead, people are just kind of watching and taking their time. As soon as I drive past the bathrooms, several parking spaces are open.

     Bri and I search for Gar and Juan in the water. I don’t see Gar, but Juan is unmistakable in his chinstrapped surf cap. With the tide a little lower this morning, some nice peaks are sprouting up and down the beach. 45^th and the sandwich shack look consistent, but those spots are more packed.

     We paddle out at Rosecrans, just as Juan is paddling late into a four-foot right. I’m about to hoot him on, but some dick in a hooded wetsuit fucking drops in on him. Fuckin’ A. I watch them both resurface to see if there will be an altercation, but Juan just paddles back, no big deal.

      I flag him down. He waves back. “Where’s Gary?” I say.

     Juan points to the guy who had just snaked him. Shit, I didn’t recognize Gary with his hoodie on. Figures Gary would snake him. About fifteen minutes later, Jimmy B paddles out and joins us, too.

     I have a slow start. The crowd’s manageable, but I can’t seem to get a good wave that will stay open. Bri gets a legit wave before I do. It’s pretty impressive seeing her on the Becker. Even paddling back through the impact zone, she turtle dives that thick 6’10 without issue.

     Gary stands out this session. He constantly gets long lefts, getting so much distance that he ends up sitting at the next break over.

     I finally get a decent runner of a left. Juan hoots me as he goes over the shoulder. The section crumbles in front of me, but I do a small floater over it. I get a little snap on the shoulder, hearing someone else hoot me from the inside. To finish the ride off, I try a layback but don’t ride out of it.

     “Matt!” I hear. I look towards the shore. Jimmy’s waving goodbye.

     And even though I hadn’t expected much this session, the surf actually gets better, and I get a few more fun little rides.

     Bri leaves to work. Juan and Gar get out at 0830 because they didn’t pay the meter. I could surf longer. I’m good until 0850, but I get out to have a little face time with the masters.

     I invite Gary out for breakfast since he had hooked me up with a good wetsuit deal. Turns out Juan’s available too since Biden’s visit is causing chaos with the traffic. We end up at Mandy’s in El Segundo. It’s Juan’s first time here. After coffee and food, I spring for the bill, saying that I had the intention of treating, but those guys whip out their cash and make sure to pay their share even though I had offered.

"Here it comes," says Gary.