Time: 0715-0915
Conditions: 4-5 FT+, sunny, semi walled, consistent
Board: 6’0 Lost Mini Driver, Thruster
Bri and I had driven to HB on Monday, and
the surf was shit. Even in the late morning, the high tide had the waves
breaking close to shore. No classic HB peaks either, just coming in too lined
up. We were going to paddle out, but I forgot my wetsuit like a fucking dumb
ass.
The biggest day of the swell, yesterday, I
woke up to look at the surf cams. It looked doable, but I didn’t expect there
to be shape. Plus, I was unmotivated. It was too easy to call a lay day, do
some errands, and sleep in a little. By the end of the night, I felt like a
regular bum. Worthless. I wasn’t even a surf bum anymore. Being a surf bum
still gives you a sense of accomplishment. Purpose. It was time to get back
into the groove.
#
Of course the tide would be killing the
surf, so I had set my alarm at 0600. I hit the snooze button, cancelling out
last night’s motivation to dawn patrol. Lame one on my part. So I late-train it
at 0645, finding free parking on 27th Street. I can see the break in
front of the tower, and it’s a swarm of high-schoolers. It must be slow because
everyone’s stagnant. No one’s caught inside or going to and from. They’re all
just waiting. And then, peaks start sprouting up. A little long but with shape.
After breaking, they moosh out a little, but some kids are getting nice rides.
For the first time in a while, my local break has legit shape.
I dawn my used 3/2 Quik Cypher that I had
bought from Gary’s son Russ. It’s a large short, so squeezing into it is a lot easier,
but I do note how the suit wrinkles around my chest from the extra material and
my inability to fill it.
Stocky Jon and Robert are watching the surf
on the strand.
“Paddling out?” I ask.
No comments:
Post a Comment