UNMET QUOTAS, THU 15JAN2015

Loc: Manhattan Beach, 33^rd Street
Time: 0715-0815
Conditions: 2-4 FT, sunny, cold, walled, swampy
Crew: Juan, Gary
Board: 6’0 Lost Mini Driver, quad

     Again, I’m late. Not an official dawn patrol. Gotta start waking up earlier. Bri leaves ahead of me. She’s surfing 26^th, but I’m heading to Rosecrans to surf with Gary because he’s selling a wetsuit. Did I mention I’m in desperate need for a sealed 3/2? Well I am, and this morning’s transaction will be well needed.

     I scan the cars, people, the “scene” as I make my way towards the south side of the lot. I don’t catch any familiar faces, so I get to the very end where there’s a fucking surf contest. Didn’t see that one coming. Also, no parking at the end. Sure as shit, Gary has prime parking, vehicle empty. He’s already out there.

     I search for street parking. Nada. I enter the Porto lot again and end up by the sandwich shack. No sealed wetsuit today. I bust out my 3/2 Hurley wetsuit with the leaky seals. At least it’s bone dry.

     The swell is a bit hyped, gold-rating according to Surfline. I had suspected that it would just be another offshore walled day, and I was right. The shape hasn’t changed much. Just a little bigger with worse tide.

     Scanning for Gary in the lineup, I head south. He’s not at Rosecrans, not at 34^th. I don’t see him at all. 33^rd is packed. If he’s here, he’s somewhere around there. I paddle out and spot him and Juan more south, almost near 30^th.

     I paddle over to them. The last time I saw Juan was before New Year. We try to catch up, but a wave pops up. Everyone scrambles for it. Gary disappears. Juan takes the next one. I’m on the last, a closeout.

     While Juan and I meander back to the lineup, Gary’s paddling back all the way from the inside. He got a good one.

     The crowd sucks, but the waves aren’t really that great anyway. There’s a right at 34^th, a couple shoulders here and there, but good luck getting one with the crowd.

     Juan snakes me on a left, but it’s expected. I’d rather get snaked by a buddy. I get snaked on another wave by a stranger, but it was a racy one anyway, so no big loss.

     We all paddle back towards Rosecrans just south of the contest. The rip current sucks us out. Next thing you know, everyone is sucked out. Now we’re all beelining towards the inside.

     Once we’re settled, a left sprouts up, the shoulder long but holding. Gary’s deep. I through him a peace sign as I paddle over the shoulder. I take the next one. Closeout.

     When Gary comes back, he and Juan are ecstatic. Turns out Gar got barreled on that one. Juan had seen it, too.

     They leave, while I’m still in the water, trying to end it with one good wave. My last one is a bit racy, foamy from the backwash, too. I take it all the way in. First session this week that I’ve missed my one-turn quota.