THE MILK MAN, MON 27APR015

 

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Time: 0645-0900

Crew: Klaude                                         

Conditions: 2-3 FT, offshore, inconsistent, soft, sunny. 

Board: 5’10 Mini Driver

     Something tells me that Porto is the right call since the swell is dropping, but surfing Porto makes me feel isolated sometimes. Sure, I talk to people there, but I’m not as cool with them as I am with the other peeps where I surf, so I head to my favorite local spot for a look. On the hill, I can see that the high-pressure system has moved in. The sun isn’t up yet, but the sky’s already clear. The water’s smooth and unmolested with soft two-to-three foot lines coming in. It’s mooshy out, but it’s worth a gamble with the tide going down.

     Reaching the sand, I see that none of the local regulars are out yet. Even the grom patrol is light. I paddle out just south of the 26^th Street tower where a few stragglers are.

     The waves are breaking a little fat but still offer some corners. After a couple closeouts, I catch a good right and crank one good backhand snap on it and ride out clean. After that, finding a good wave is hard. I keep bogging out on the inside after my turns. Maybe the quads have too much grip on my snaps and they’re slowing me down in these soft conditions. Should’ve went with thruster setup. I was going to use my MB Too, but I forgot my Futures Fins like a dumbass.

     In the distance, I see a guy walking towards the water. As he enters, he does a little hand motion and points to the sky, a ritual. It has to be no other than Klaude.

     The groms have left. Second shifters are now out. Toru even joins us for his standard thirty-minute heat.

     The conditions still stay perfect—glassy and offshore—but the waves just aren’t producing good shape. The ones with size closeout. There’s a weird backwash. Yet, Klaude catches a left from the tower all the way north to the brickhouse. “God damn,” I say when he paddles back. “Gonna start calling you the milkman.” He makes two fists and tugs on two imaginary udders.

     On the next right, he catches another long one all the way inside.

     The lowering tide isn’t helping. Klaude says, “When Uncle Miles shows up, that’s my cue to leave.”

     I look north. “He’s here.”

     We watch Miles on his longboard go two for two on some long lefts.