Loc:
El Porto, Rosecrans
Time:
0700-0830
Crew:
Bri
Conditions:
3 FT+, foggy, swampy
Board:
5’10 Mini Driver, Quad Setup
After yesterday evening, I expected for
there to be fun thumping windswell peaks, but looking out at the ocean, I can
already tell that the tide’s too high. Gary’s out here somewhere with Dave T. I
spot someone in front of 40th with Gary’s similar Grape Ape style on
a left.
When we paddle out at 40th, I
don’t see Gary anywhere. Must be more towards 42nd, I’m thinking.
Damn. I had wanted to surf 26th Street, but I wanted to see if I
could get some face time with Garr. It was my fault for waking up late. All
around me, I don’t see one familiar face.
I go really late on a left. It’s already
spilling, and when the lip crashes onto my back, I’m sent flying down the line
on my belly, finally recovering my popup on the inside. Lame. The takeoffs look
promising, but the waves just moosh on the inside. I blow my next cutback from
lack of speed (and skill).
Meanwhile, it’s day number two for Bri and
her new partner, the 6’0 Lost Mini Driver, and even though she has to struggle
with the same conditions that I’m working against, she gets more waves than I
do. I remind her to kick her legs to assist her paddling.
It’s funny how that used to be my go-to
board, which was suspect upon its initial purchase. Too big, had been my first
thought, and then later I thought it fit like a glove. And now my girlfriend is
riding it. Wow, it really must’ve been too big for me. A lot of credit goes for
Bri’s progression, too.
After Bri leaves, I hang out for a little
while longer. The surf doesn’t improve much. I struggle to meet my one-turn
quota and then finally quit and go in.
At the car, there’s already a text from
Garr from about an hour ago. “Not too worthy,” was what he had written. Yeah. I
can see that.
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