Loc:
Manhattan Beach, 26th Street
Crew:
Bri, Jimmy B., Manny, Juan
Time:
0645-0800
Conditions:
2-3 FT, dumpy, low tide
What the fuck happened to yesterday’s fun
low-tide sesh? A lot of people are already parked around 26th
Street. It makes sense. The word’s out, yesterday was good, but today. . . that
swell’s over.
Surfers sit stagnant atop a low-tide lake,
looking at each other. More surfers paddle out to look at each other again.
The WHC paddles out more south in front of
Marine, where a left was working yesterday according to Jimmy. I believe him,
too. Today the sets are just breaking on shore. We paddle out anyway.
Bri and I start off at 26th and
shoot the shit with the locals to get our Ohana points. The waves with size
just suck out and dump. Surfers aren’t even paddling out, they’re walking.
Out of cold and boredom, Bri and I paddle
south to Marine to join the rest of the guys. They’re pulling in on the
closeouts. If they weren’t, they’d just be sitting there. I look at my watch.
Not time yet.
Bri and I paddle back north to 26th.
Conditions have not improved. In fact the tide is now lower. I look at my watch
once more. One hour officially. Time to go in. We lose.
No comments:
Post a Comment