CHURCHES CAMPOUT WEEKEND PT.IV, FRI 26JUN2015

Wakey-Wakey

Loc: Del Mar Jetty

Time: 0730-0930

Crew: Rick, Gary, Juan, Dave T., Bri

Conditions: 1-3 FT, overcast, glassy, inconsistent, uncrowded

     This is Juan’s birthday weekend, and the surf’s unfortunately not cooperating. DMJ is Rick’s, Juan’s, and Gary’s favorite spot. Open and less crowded punchy beachbreak. I can’t blame them, but today it looks like a lake.

     We all sit and wait. Gary’s on his pill board, and he gets the first decent ride of the morning, connecting a long left from the top of the jetty all the way to the inside. We’re all getting waves, but they’re lacking umph. It’s hard to get man turns in there. On the Becker, Bri’s the one with the highest wavecount.

     For some reason, every time Juan or Gary catches one inside, a set wave always pops out the back for me. After their waves, they look out back and call me into the rogue waves, waves I can’t even see.

     I want to say that I rip these waves, but I’m off. Some of them stand up and offer some rampy sections. I pump and try to set up for carves, but my man carves turn into sloppy check turns. My layback carves aren’t sticking, so I’m blowing them on the finishes.

     I end one of those lefts with a floater. Dave T. points at me in approval in the distance. Minutes later, he’s grimacing in pain on the shore. Stingray.

     Bri, Juan, and Rick had been collecting sand dollars when we first got out, but now we’re a bit weary.

     “There’s a huge one underneath you,” says Rick. I look down. A brown ray’s underneath me. It’s the size of a spare tire.

     After the sesh, we tell Dave to soak his foot in some hot water. He has his daughter’s with him. Daddy’s tough. He opts for a bandage and some Advil.

PT.V

Loc: Churches

Time: 1250-1430

Crew: Bri & Gary

Conditions: 2-3 FT, light onshore, sunny, inconsistent

     Setting up camp is a motherfucker. I don’t want to get into it, but by the time we unpack, set up, are forced to move, and set up again, Bri and I are toast. We snack on some bread rolls and water in the process. We’d like to grab a bite to eat somewhere, but we’re so hot that we have to paddle out again. Plus, the tide’s coming in. The surf looks decent, but who knows for how long?

     Bri and I hit the water first. My forearms are burnt from yesterday’s two afternoon go outs. Didn’t even think about sunblocking my arms. My thighs are burnt, too, where my springsuit cuts off.

     The surf is softer and smaller than yesterday. I catch a right but have to really pump and hop hard to manufacture some turns.

     Bri’s all right, right board as usual.

     Gary comes out, and with his company a few random sets appear out the back. It’s a long wait for the sets, but they’re there.

     Gary’s best wave is a long left all the way to the inside. I get a few lefts, too, but nothing really stands out.   

     After the sesh, Bri and I head out to La Tiendita to eat a late lunch. When we get back, Rick’s adamant about going in town to catch the U.S. versus Colombia soccer game, so we head to O.C. Tavern. It’s my first time here. The food’s a little pricey, but it’s nothing unexpected. Since we had already eaten, Bri and I order two sundaes and a coffee, which comes out to twenty bucks.

     The rest of the night, it’s story-telling time. The panel of mentors tell their surf tales of days past, Mexico, the legend of Ricky Bronson, and just talking surfing.

     When Gary talks waves, he gets into it and mimics pumping on a wave with his hands that makes him look like he’s hula dancing. It’s quite the show. I thought he was the only one, and then Dave T. gets in on it, too, mimicking backside snaps. My brother once told me how he and his friends don’t share their surfing with others. His friend Daz had told him, “It’s like talking about going to bed with your wife. You just don’t do it.” So I appreciate that these guys don’t mind sharing their surfing with me. It makes one vulnerable, exposing his surfheart on his sleeve.

     “You know who the king of bottom turns was?” says Dave.

     “Curren,” says Gary.

     I try to stay awake and wait for them to turn in before I do, but I can’t. I fade out, leaving the panel while they’re still going strong. Too many stories with too much history they have with each other. I hope one day to rack up as much XP under my belt, too.