Thursday, June 18, 2015

PHENOM FINALE, THU 18JUN2015



Loc: Manhattan Beach
Time: 0815-0930
Conditions: 1-2 FT, overcast, light onshore, uncrowded
Board: Zippifish


     Since the tide’s drained out, I decide to hit the surf a little later this morning. The consequence to this decision will be the wind. Leaving El Segundo, I already see the some flags blowing onshore, but at least it’s sunny, that is until I reach Vista Del Mar, and then it’s Seattle all over again.
     Driving past Dockweiler, the conditions look bearable. Some textured lines are rolling in consistently. If it’s good here, it must be all right everywhere else.
     When I reach my surf spot, I see that there’s barely anyone out. It’s smaller here. Tide’s still drained. Ankle and knee slappers stand up and race away from the lack of water. Well, I got the Zippifish. What’s an hour of my morning just to fut around and get wet? With zero expectations, I make my trek down the hill. A couple local heroes are watching the surf from the lot, but their body language says that they’re going home. Don’s parked there, already in his wetsuit and pulling out his board. There’s one.
     I take my time warming up. Could be some little trimmers out there once the tide picks up. I walk three quarters of the way out to the lineup before I hop on my board to paddle the rest of the distance, and then I turn back around because nothing’s breaking outside. The forecast is finally true. Two days ago it wasn’t. Consistent three feet it was. Even yesterday was double the size as today. 1-2 FT. It was an anomaly that wasn’t supposed to happen, but now it’s gone.
     Despite how small the waves are, my Zippi’s catching every little bump that swings my way. Some occasional two-footers actually have a little umph in them. I go left on one, pump, and actually get to the open shoulder. Since the waves are slower this morning, my frontside feels much better, so I cram in a little bottom turn and a smack off the lip.
     I hear a hoot when the ride’s over. It’s Don. He gives the nod of approval.
     To give respect to the local vets, I actually paddle away. I want to give these guys room. This morning, it’s Don. Also, I like wearing earplugs, and it’s a bitch having a conversation with them, and I’d hate to ask The King of 26th Street to repeat himself.
     In the process of paddling away and securing my own little spot, I catch so many little waves that no one paddles by me. Everyone else is north of the tower towards the Brick House.
     Halfway through the session, Miles comes out. A couple other old timers, too. Cool dudes.
     I get another long left. Miles shoots me a smile on the inside.
     Checking my Vivofit2, I see that I’ve moved covered about a mile of distance. I’ve been out for an hour and fifteen minutes. That’s good enough for an ankle-slapper session.

     I’ll say it again. I had discounted this big blue Zippi, but it’s so nice to have a board that works well in meager conditions. I’d like to be a dedicated shortboarder, but I think being dedicated to the ocean is more important. Even Don, a guy who rips in dredging surf, is out here on suitable equipment for small waves. It’s about the stoke, nothing else.

Short session with lots of small waves, but covered more distance than yesterday in less time.

Wave activity.

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