THE ONE PT.II, SUN 31MAY2015

Loc: El Porto, 45^th Street

Conditions: 2-3 FT, inconsistent, overcast

     Again, I’m at 26^th Street, and the surf looks even smaller than yesterday. Down by the lifeguard tower, I see Stocky John and Robert with two other local guys. They’re standing in front of their cars by the meters, chopping it up over the surf as usual. Mitch is at ground level, half-changed into a wetsuit. “Park here,” he says, pointing to a VIP spot right next to him.

     So I park, look up to the guys and say a few words. The other two who I don’t know are just looking at me with hard faces. I wonder if I’ve burned them before, or if I’m not as nice as a surfer as I imagine. I don’t think I’m an asshole surfer. . . Despite the VIP parking, after my recon check, I’m out.

     Now I’m at 45^th Street, and, as always, there’s a hair more size here. A few weak sets roll by, but it’s when I see someone get a few turns on a left that I’m sold.

     I VOX Klaude, change, and hit the water. Whiffle Boy is out. He says he hasn’t surfed in weeks. I tell him about Bri and me going to Indo soon. “Same place. Only three weeks,” I say.

     “Only?”

     So I move a little south to find a gap in the sparse lineup. Compared to yesterday, I’m catching a lot of waves, but the quality is still an issue. I get a weak floater, pull in on some closeouts, and that’s about it.

     Almost at the hour and a half mark, a right comes in. I can’t believe it’s opening up as I’m pumping. Since the wave is fast, I force a bottom turn and snap. It’s ugly, but it works. I get another hit and a kickout snap to end it.

     Once more, I’m walking out of the water after having caught a wave. It’s such a good way to end a session. I could get used to this.

     Back home, Klaude calls. He had paddled out by the 34^th Street area. He comes over for coffee, and then Bri and I head to the movies. $6.00 matinee prices for first movie. Mad Max and Avengers for free. Mad Max was better.