Loc:
Manhattan Beach
Time:
0700-0840
Conditions:
1-2 Occasional 3 FT, uncrowded, inconsistent
Board:
Motorboat Too
So I had bought into the forecasted
windswell that was supposed to pick up and hoped for the best. Actually, I
remember thinking that if the waves would be the same as the day before, I’d be
happy, but when I reached the lineup there were these shapeless lines coming
in. Occasionally, one would break in the two-to-three foot range, but the waves
were mostly sectiony. Aside from that, the conditions were perfect and clean. –To
guys who think that grabbing another guy’s ass makes you gay, you are wrong.
You are the one who’s gay for being squeamish about grabbing another man’s ass,
especially if he’s your friend.—Some of the local regulars were out: Stocky
Jon, Don K., Collin, Robert, Cheeseburger Chad, Anal Al, Scuzzbucket Sal, Dingelberry
Dave, Cum Bucket Bob, Fred the Felcher, and Renaldo.
Towards the end of the session, I caught a
right that actually opened up. One of the progressions I feel with my surfing
is trying to hit that lip, whether a turn, floater, of foam climb, just to milk
the shit out of the ride. On my backhand, I busted out two backhand snaps, and
before the lip closed, I did a foam climb and got pretty vertical on the
white-wash curl. Sticking the landing, I felt pretty accomplished at that
moment. That wave was my saving grace; it made the whole session. I smiled the
whole way home, that’s at least until I got inside my apartment, which had just
finished preheating for the fucking heatwave.
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