Loc: Manhattan Beach
Time: 0700-0840
Conditions: 5 FT+, consistent, low tide,
racy, light sideshore
Board: Lost Mini Driver, 5’10, quads
I
ain’t gonna lie. I was hoping that the surf would be a hair smaller. After
yesterday’s barrel, I became a surf martyr for the rest of the session. Every
wave I pulled into was worthy, but I just blew the rides somehow. One wave was
a perfect slow builder, the ones you fade out for and pull into, but I still
lost it on the setup. I was getting critical wipeouts. I even lost an earplug.
One wave slammed me down onto my feet, perfectly upright, just standing underwater
with tons of water being dumped on top of me. The bottom of my heels still
hurt.
On
that Tuesday morning, I showed up to find the ocean with a little bit of
texture on it from the south wind. According to the news, there was a
low-pressure system in the area that was going to cool things off. Onshore flow
was one of the factors.
The
surf was a tad bit smaller, but the low tide still made the surf racy.
The
weight of getting barreled at my local break had been lifted from my shoulders,
so I thought I’d just show up and own the place, but I was just getting worked
from the start. I tried to keep the momentum of my hellman energy from the day
before. I was pulling into these sectiony lefts, driving in some dry sections
but still getting annihilated.
My
paddle felt a bit weaker. I had to remind myself to just go for it. Waves began
to pass me unridden, and that’s when I knew I wasn’t up for it anymore.
At
home that night, my right shoulder was in pain. It hurt to prop myself up on my
shoulder, but it had been hurting since Indo. How long had I been surfing consistently?
Easily from the Indo trip up until know, roughly a month and a half. I felt like
the battle between consistency and rest was starting to catch up. My body was talking
to me.
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