Loc: North Churches
Time: 0630-0845
Conditions: 2-3 FT+, glassy, sunny, warm,
consistent, soft
Board: 5’10” Lost Mini Driver
That
morning was supposed to be “the day,” that good south was gonna produce some
rippable surf, but again, Churches looked small at first light. I paddled past
the top of the wave and stubbornly sat at North Churches by myself. Manny and
Jimmy had left. Rick and Garr were packing. My buddy Cassady, who had shown up
last night, had to do a social media post on Lowers for his job before paddling
out.
I
sat in a lull for about fifteen minutes patiently, and then all of a sudden
those motherfuckin’ lefts started coming in. Perfect and peaky, I was getting
into position with ample time. No one was out there to challenge me because
most were on the right. I was surfing in a vacant no-mans land. Only issue . .
. my Mini Driver didn’t feel right. Shit. Just . . . the wave was just too weak
for it. Suddenly I missed my Motorboat Too. Though, the speed from the quads
did feel nice, but the waves just felt too soft on that board, like I had too
much rocker.
Most
of my waves were pumping setups for a solid hack at the end. I attempted a
layback on a critical closeout section. If I could have paused that moment when
I dropped my wallet, it would’ve looked good, but then I lost it.
Still
though, even though the waves felt soft, it was the best session of the trip.
Just fun rippable lefts all to myself. That’s what I come to Trestles for.
In
the distance, I could here the P.A. system from the event. Someone in a pink
wetsuit busted an air. I didn’t care.
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