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| If you live in the South Bay, somehow someway, you will find yourself back to this place. |
Had
I given up on the Rocket too quickly? On Thursday, Oct. 1st, I
decided to take a chance on Porto again, since I had had a decent session at 45th
on Tuesday. I had planned on going back to my Motorboat Too, but I opened my
trunk to find that I had a senile moment while packing my car the night before
because I had forgotten to bring it, but I did have the Rocket with the FCS
JF-1 Thruster setup already screwed in there.
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| As far as SoCal, the JF-1 fins work well. |
Even
though the surf forecast didn’t call for decent surf, the lineup was much more
crowded than Tuesday, and a lot of noobs were present. A Team Costco rider had
nearly ran me over. I knew it, just seeing the look in his eye that said, “I
have no idea how to turn. Insider beware, I will go straight.”
Luckily,
he ate shit as the wave pitched, and his board was too far in front of me to be
a hazard. When he resurfaced, he gave me that kookish smile that indicated he
had no idea what kind of threat he actually posed to those around him.
The
surf wasn’t big, but the inside was consistent. I was surprised to see how many
local regulars were ditching their boards, but the consistency was a Godsend.
Within a half hour, half the lineup left. It was just the 45th
Street usual suspects: Surfing Santa, the longboarder guy who’s a high school
teacher, that longhaired longboarder who likes to use those paddle-assist
gloves (really, I think this guy’s a decent surfer and doesn’t need them).
Going
back to volume, the Rocket had me paddling into waves with ease, but the
difference this time was the extra pivot I had with the thruster setup. I did
feel the loss of speed when driving down the line, but going left I actually
went rail-to-rail on a wrap. Backhand right, I finally got that solid snap that
I had been feening for.
I
surfed for about an hour and a half and called it a morning when the tide
slowed things down. I was stoked. Changing out fins setups can really change your
surfing experience. That being said, I have more appreciation for this board.
Still a bit too much volume for me, but with thrusters it’s definitely more
rippable.
If
you’re curious about volume recommendations for your ability and body type,
check out this useful link from Channel Islands.
http://vol-app.com/ChannelIslands/
Session Tracker:
01OCT, Thursday, El Porto, 45th
St., playful windswell, consistent, wave buffet.
02OCT, Friday, El Porto, 42nd
St., solid windswell, 3-4FT, crowded, got bitched out by Manny A. for “not
going” even though he fucking back paddled me. I just didn’t want to snake him.
03OCT, Saturday, Manhattan Beach, 26th
Street, playful windswell, dumpy, uncrowded due to marathon, blew a perfect
wave on my MB Too, could have used my standard short.



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