Last night I told Shan that I’d meet him at Porto at first light. At first light I was snuggled under my blankets with Lauren’s warm body right next to me. I shut off the alarm and told myself that I’d take a break from surfing. My left shoulder has been bothering me lately, I went to sleep late, I hade a little sinus headache, and the surf was going to be small any way. Shan called me and said he’d check it out later. A little after eight o’clock Cheryl and Shan text that they were already there. Klaude also called me and told me he was on his way to hang out. Well, there was no way I could’ve sat this one out while all of my DRC peeps had their toes touching the sand, and I was at home, butt naked with my pubes pointing out every which way. I told Lauren to get her ass in gear because we were going to the beach!
I called Jon and gave him the invite. As Lauren and I pulled into the Porto lot I saw Klaude, Cheryl, Shan, and Christina on the sand getting ready to paddle out. Lauren picked a spot next to Klaude’s gear. I gave that Japanese guy a hug and wished him a late Happy Turkey Day. He told me that Dais was on the way. All we were missing was Jon (our Token Mexican); if he was there we would’ve almost had a full crew.
It was small, but the conditions were a little better than yesterday. It was sunny, there was no wind, the surf was consistent, and the waves were thigh to waist high on the plus sets. There was a little crowd out, but everyone seemed easy, and there was enough for everyone. I greeted the rest of the bunch in the line up. Christina and Cheryl showed me their recent purchases. It seemed that I was the only jackasses that didn’t have any winter gear yet. I was amped from the cup of coffee I drank, and it made me anxious and over-excited. I was stoked to surf with my friends and to have Lauren with me (even though she wasn’t in the water). I already saw Shan catch a nice little left from the shore. He brought out his seven footer. Everyone else was getting waves except for me. Costco-Christina was paddling into waves, and Cheryl, AKA Fish Killer, was catching them with ease, too. I saw Shantasm paddle into a wave with only two strokes. Cheryl told me that her gloves helped her paddling. I guess they all have bionic paddling capabilities now. It was great seeing Cheryl catch so many waves. She’s the gnarliest female surfer that I know, just from the fact that she’s usually really consistent, and she’ll be the only chick in the line up at times.
The waves were kind of soft, and I was having a hard time getting the drop on some of them. I fell on a lot of waves; they were weak. I think I wanted to do more than the wave allowed, so I finally just drew a narrow line and focused on staying on the face and keeping speed. I had to freeze my stance on a lot of waves to make sure I didn’t lose momentum. My wave of the day was a right that I had to trim from top to bottom to keep up with the section. I think I stayed on that one all the way to shore.
I would turn back to wave at Lauren, then I’d wave at Klaude. Poor Klaude. I’m glad that he could make it out to watch us surf, but I knew that he wished he was in the line up with us more than anything. I told everyone else that it would be cool if we could push him on a couple waves, but any accident could cause a major setback towards his recovery.
Dais showed up and joined in on the wave buffet. We dominated a whole peak to ourselves. It’s rare that we all get a chance to surf together, and the energy in the water was positive. Just before 11:00 A.M. the wind and tide came up a little, and the waves got blown out and softer. Team CC (Cheryl and Christina) left first, then the rest of us followed. We shot the shit in the parking lot and decided to meet again tomorrow for the bigger surf. It’s supposed to be three to four feet tomorrow. Let’s hope they are right. DRC all the way, I’m glad to be part of this group
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