My venture out to Oceanside was failed. I had hopes of clean, rolling, three foot shoulders, the kind that just let you play, experiment, and do what you want with them. That was not the case. Shan told me to meet him at Porto at six in the morning. I woke up late, and he was suited and waiting by the time I showed up. The lines looked long and crumbly. The tide was high. There were some soft shoulders, but the whole sections seemed to disintegrate. In front of the bathrooms there were some guys getting some lefts that held shape for a little bit. With our late start, we staged in front of 45th. Shan turned to me and said, “We should just paddle out to the peak and get the lefts; there are just newbs out there.” I felt a little too humble to acknowledge that fully. He continued with, “The real surfers wouldn’t surf these conditions.” Yeah, that was true, but what did that make of us? We were just some wave fiends, looking for that higher feeling of enlightenment in the water … we didn’t achieve it.
Our hearts deceived us, and we told ourselves that it was better than it really was. Even on the shoulder, the sections just crumbled away. It was disappointing; the waves have been disappointing overall as of late. We called it after an hour.
I’m longing for some good surf. I don’t need to get devoured by ten foot waves; I just want good clean surf. Will this disappointment continue?
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