I'm 40 years old, and I've been surfing consistently for about 15 years. I know that's not a lot; I was a late bloomer, but I'm still absolutely in love with it. I write this not for monetary gain or notoriety (like that would ever happen) but just to express my love for this art we call surfing (art not sport) and how I balance it in my everyday life. Welcome, I hope you find it enjoyable.
Sunday, November 28, 2010
It's 6:00 A.M. You're sitting in your car freezing your ass off, thinking about jumping in that cold ass water for a surf session.
No comments:
Post a Comment