THE RETURN OF THE DEPRESSION SESSIONS: FRI 11.12.2010 MORN

    Rick text me right before six in the morning and asked me to join him at the Blue Butterfly to get some coffee, then check Porto.  I told him I was already heading to the lot to get first dibs on parking.  The plan this morning was to surf Hammerland, but on the way there I could tell that the surf wasn’t producing in that area.  The tide was low, and the surf looked a crumbly by the jetty.  J text me to let me know he was already in line to park.  Once they opened the gates, Rick, J, and I got the first parking spots on the left.  I introduced Rick and J, Rick just came to check it out, and J and I paddled out right in front of 45th.  We were the first ones to paddle out.  We were almost able to walk all the way to the line.  The waves were about three feet, but fast, walled, or closed out.  The water was cold, but it was definitely more bearable than yesterday. 

    I caught a couple closers to start.  I was happy that I was able to paddle hard and catch those waves; maybe my paddle is getting stronger.  The wave of the day came through.  It was a small left, and even though J was on my inside I still paddled for it.  I was in the perfect spot where the shoulder formed.  J told me to go for it, and I trimmed pretty far down the line and kept up with the fast section.  J was stoked that I got a good ride; too bad it would be the only wave with shape for the rest of the session. 

    Whenever the set waves came through, they were walled and dumpy.  The crowd began to arrive, and the line up became packed.  Every time I caught a close out, there were so many people paddling and surfing towards the inside; it was dangerous.  A lot of people were caught on the inside because the waves were dumping in the shallows where everyone was. 

    Besides my one good wave, it was a shitty morning.  I couldn’t believe how crowded it was for the shitty waves.  We got out right at eight.  Oh well, what did we expect?  Whenever the surf dies it usually lasts for at least three to four days.  Tomorrow I’m supposed to check out San O. for Rick’s birthday.  I hope I can get some decent waves there.