Randy almost decided to come up to L.A. to surf. I showed up at 26th St. at 7:00 A.M. and shot a text out to Shan. It was definitely smaller than the last time I was there. The waves seemed to be breaking closer to shore, the tide was at mid level, and it was about 2 - 3 feet. It was packed. There were so many people there that it took a while for me to choose where I was going to paddle out. I then realized it was Veterans Day, and that a lot of people had the day off. The waves were a little punchy and not holding shape. I spotted Shan in the water a little before eight o’clock. We both struggled to find some good waves and compete with the crowd. Worst of all, it was balls freezing out there. It was the coldest morning that I had since I’ve been home. I was wearing my holy wetsuit that’s thinned down like a nylon stocking on the shoulder part. The crowded line up and teeth chattering cold took me out of the session mentally. Shan spotted his girlfriend on the sand waving him down, so we both paddled back in just before nine. I’m glad that Randy didn’t come out. He would’ve been disappointed.
We have been blessed with warm weather and good surf lately, but now … the party is definitely over for the meanwhile. Every session can’t be awesome. For now, I expect shitty surf until the next good swell.
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