CREW: J, Rick, John A., Dave T., Jimmy, and a bunch of Rick’s other homeboys
TIME: 0640 - 0850, 1.3 hrs.
WATER: Cold, soft, chest high, mid tide, holiday crowded,
Last night I let Shan, J, and Dais know that I’d be surfing Porto in the morning. J showed up. I scored free parking on 45th before the gate was even open. I couldn’t tell what the waves were doing yet, but I saw that there was some action in the water. My girlfriend, Lauren, bought me a lock safe to keep my car key in, so I used it for the first time. I sunblocked up and met up with J who was parked in the first stall. We paddled out at 45th. The water wasn’t crowded yet. The early morning was really good. The waves were only chest high, but the shoulders were well defined, and there was enough push on them to propel you down the line. J and I caught one wave after another. I got a really good left where I was able to carve its face. I wanted to attempt a cut back, but there wasn’t enough size to work with. It was a fair exchange. I like surfing with J because we give each other a lot of waves. Perfect sets were coming in with us telling each other to go for them. At about 0730 the water changed. It was no longer breaking where we were, the waves got softer, and the two prime spots were 42nd or north of 45th. Both of those spots were jam packed. I saw that Dave was surfing right next to us, and he told me that Rick and the gang were all there.
We paddled to their group by the tanks. I introduced J to John A. … There are just too many Johns that I surf with. We actually had a hard time catching waves there. Those guys were cool, but they are really good, and they were catching a lot of the waves. J left to feed the meter. I paddled further north to get away from the crowd. The waves weren’t as good over there. I was surfing with John, and he caught a lot of rides all the way to the sand. He even said he was getting mini barrels over two feel of water. I was getting frustrated when I finally caught a left. I looked ahead of me and saw John trying to paddle towards my right to get out of the way. I thought I would go past him, but I got hung up on the lip and totally ran him over. Lucky for us, we didn’t hit each other or our boards, but I was a little embarrassed and traumatized by that incident. Someone could have seriously gotten hurt, and I felt at fault for the whole thing.
J made it back and caught some nice rights. I got some rights, too, and managed a couple turns off the lip. It was a little past 0850, and I was worried about getting a parking ticket. I tried to catch one last wave, but that wave never came. I ended up back at my car right after the parking enforcement got there.
It was fun while it lasted, a Christmas Eve surf session. I think two years ago to this day I did the exact same thing. Even though tomorrow will be small, I can’t wait to surf.
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