CREW: Dais (couldn’t find each other, but he was there)
TIME: 1530 - 1650, 1.3 hrs.
WATER: Warmer than the morning, fairly consistent, waist to shoulder high, drained out tide, waves breaking in shallow area, some heads out.
After the morning session I went home and ate like a damn champ. At about 1515 I headed back out to see what the surf was like. Dais had text me and told me he was on his way from the valley. I was delighted to see the sun shining all throughout El Segundo as I drove off. Hyperion and Hammers had waves, but they were breaking close to shore. I was in total awe when I saw the low orange sun above the ocean as I made my way into the lot. Even better, I saw a set rolling in; there were waves! I was beyond happy; I was giddy. I shot a text back to Dais to let him know where I’d be. The tide looked completely out. Once I was on the sand I realized that I got excited too fast. Yes, there were waves, but they were breaking really shallow. I walked out in front of 45th. It was actually harder than anticipated. Since the waves were breaking so close, I was faced with waves breaking right in front of me in chest deep water. I had a hard time duckdiving them because it was too shallow. Once I got to the line up it didn’t take too long for a wave to come. The lull in between sets wasn’t that long. There was a little wind which put a little bit of texture on the water. The peaks were pretty long with a well defined shoulder to work with; it’s just too bad that the tide was so low. I tried to catch the outside sets so I could get a longer ride, but that wasn’t always the case. My first couple waves were rights, and I was surprised that I was able to get good top turns on all of them before they completely closed out. I got a pretty good one where I was able to hear the spray. It sounded like a splashing crack. I caught a couple lefts that didn’t hold shape. Unfortunately, it was a little dangerous out there. I drifted a little south which placed me in the crowd. When I was done on a wave there were people paddling into rides right in front of me. There were so many heads in harm’s way because of the shallow water. I finally went back to shore so I could walk north, away from everyone. I was in front of the tanks, and it wasn’t as good over there, but I still got some rides. I looked for Dais, but there was no sign of him. He could’ve been mixed in with the main crowd.
I saw jellyfish in the water, which I thought was odd for El Porto. There were also dolphins catching waves right next to me. I got a little scared because they were catching the waves right in front of me as I paddled out. I was so worried that we were going to collide. When they were done with their ride, they swam right next to me to get back to the line. It freaked me out a little bit. At about 1650 I caught my last wave in. It wasn’t a great session, but I was happy to get some turns on those right hand waves; it was more turns than I got during the morning session. I would later find out that Dais did make it out, but we had missed each other. Despite the mediocre surf, I needed to pull a double session. I’ve gone too long without surf, and we are expecting rain again next week, so now’s the time to get in.
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