CREW: Randy
TIME: 0900 - 1045, 1.75 hrs..
WIND: none
WATER: Cold as usual, glassy, low tide, easy paddle out, sunny, small waves at about 2 feet, inconsistent.
My brother is flying out to Bali in a couple days, and he won’t be returning for quite some time. He said he was going to paddle out this morning, so I made the effort to meet him in HB. I had a feeling that Porto would be tiny, and I hoped for some kind of surf down south.
It was an inviting, sunny, morning with only a few heads out. North of the river jetties were some paddle boarders, and we could make out a couple more people down south. We paddled out right where we hit the sand. There were two peaks that produced some waves, but they were small. The waves were clean, but only two feet tall. Some random sets, about a foot higher, would break on the outside, but that was probably once every fifteen minutes. We knew that it wasn’t the right morning to surf. Some SUP’s even tried to warn us, before we set out, that the waves were too small. We were literally there just to work up an appetite before we had AYCE sushi. We spent a lot of time just talking about what we were planning to do within the next year. We talked about Lauren and I coming up to Bali to visit and us getting some surf in. I paddled and scratched hard for some tiny waves. I got one right where I was able to get some baby spray before the wave bogged out. Randy was just kicking out after catching waves to the inside.
Not much to write, it was just a small morning. This morning was more significant to my brother. It was the last time he’ll surf HB until his return from Bali, years from now. Afterwards we knocked out some shopping at the Billabong employee store, and then we killed some sushi at Zenkos.
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