CREW: RANDY
FLAKES OF THE DAY: None
TIME: 0700 -0900, 2 hrs.
WIND: ? Can’t remember
WATER: Shoulder to head high at off peaks, a little bigger in front of 45th . Walled, but there were some waves with fast, rideable, shoulders if you were lucky enough to be in the right spot. Long waits in between good waves.
My brother wanted to check out Hammers again to see if it was going off. We reached the Grand parking lot a little before 0630 and bought a pass. I ended up taking out the 6’1 DMS that he gave me a while back. On the walk to the break we could tell that Hammers wasn’t really doing it. The south side of the jetty wasn’t happening either. There was a little drop in swell size, and the tide was going from mid to high.
We ended up walking to the north side of the tanks. We saw a good right come through, and we marked our peak. Most of the sets were walled at about head high, but every once in a while a defined peak would jack up from the sand bar. It was cold. We initially had a long wait and went our own ways to find a peak. I caught a couple closeouts. We were already into our first hour. Randy made the call to head closer to the stacks where we bumped into Ray. It wasn’t a gnarly day compared to the last week of surf, so I felt pretty confident on the 6’1. As we were paddling over, a little peak raised from the ocean. I was in the perfect position for a right. My paddling arms felt strong, and I was able to drop in. I was quite off balance, but I managed to go down the line and stay on the board. It was too fast for a rail grab, but I had my right arm trailing behind me and my hand in the wave. It was a great feeling. I caught about three more rights, and my last wave was a left. Randy and I were a little far apart, so I didn’t get to see what he was doing close up.
I saw my brother at the line up, then reality hit me. I may not see him again for at least a good two years, and he leaves in a matter of days. That would be one of the last times that I’d get to pull a session with him for a while. I’m happy that I got to spend as much time with him as I could since I’ve been home. Pretty soon Team Ramelb will be no longer, not until we meet again. By then who knows how things will be? Especially my surfing, I hope to improve by then. Another option, I may have to go to Indo to reunite much sooner. Thanks, Bro, for all the tips, and time you invested in hanging with me. I’m gonna miss you when you leave.
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