LEFTS & RIGHTS AT 26TH, THU 6.02.2011 MOR
Crew: Solo
Time: 0900-1000, 1 hr.
Conditions: 3 feet, peaky, strong north current, consistent, on shore wind, sunny, balls freezing water, and big mutant dolphins.
After surfing the whole Memorial Day weekend, I had a shit load of blogs to catch up on. Too bad I didn't have any electrical connections while camping. If I did, I would have done my blogs there. The end result was me staying up until 0200 Thursday morning, tired, and fighting to remember details that I lost over time and sleepiness. I meant to wake up earlier, but 0800 was the best that I could do. The post effects of the camping weekend took a serious toll, as I've still been pretty tired the days that followed.
Even though my whole morning was almost shot in the ass, the sun was bright, and the wind was still non existent. I headed to Porto to take a look. I was happy to find a couple peaks that were working. They didn't look that great, but the right-hander in front of the tanks seemed to be working, and I even saw surfers in front of 45th. The waves seemed a little close together, especially on the inside, so I decided to have a look at Parks. Either way, I would rather park for free than pay a quarter for every ten minutes (fuckin' meters).
I couldn't really tell what 26th was doing from on top of the hill. All I could tell was that there was some lifeguard recruit training going on, the main crowd was to the north, and a small group of surfers were to the south. When I was all suited up and locked up my car, I noticed that the onshore winds started to pick up.
It was hard to tell how good it was from the sand. The second I touched the water I couldn't believe how cold it was. It's June, and the water is still balls freezing. WTF? I braced the cold and finally woke up upon my first duckdive. On the way out I saw two good waves with decent peaks form right in front of me. The first wave had a surfer going left and the next had a guy going right. When I sat at the take off zone I was able to take full account of everything. The waves weren't perfectly consistent, but the lulls weren't that long. With every set came three or four decent three foot peaks. They weren't perfect because the rides were a little short since the distance from shore wasn't very far. Also, the wind already put some texture on them, but the conditions were great for a local surf session.
Whenever I surf local right after surfing Trestles I notice that I don't surf the same. The clear difference is due to the wave, and it's almost unfair to compare. But if you're a good surfer, then you can surf in any conditions, and that's what I need to strive for.
Crew: Solo
Time: 0900-1000, 1 hr.
Conditions: 3 feet, peaky, strong north current, consistent, on shore wind, sunny, balls freezing water, and big mutant dolphins.
After surfing the whole Memorial Day weekend, I had a shit load of blogs to catch up on. Too bad I didn't have any electrical connections while camping. If I did, I would have done my blogs there. The end result was me staying up until 0200 Thursday morning, tired, and fighting to remember details that I lost over time and sleepiness. I meant to wake up earlier, but 0800 was the best that I could do. The post effects of the camping weekend took a serious toll, as I've still been pretty tired the days that followed.
Even though my whole morning was almost shot in the ass, the sun was bright, and the wind was still non existent. I headed to Porto to take a look. I was happy to find a couple peaks that were working. They didn't look that great, but the right-hander in front of the tanks seemed to be working, and I even saw surfers in front of 45th. The waves seemed a little close together, especially on the inside, so I decided to have a look at Parks. Either way, I would rather park for free than pay a quarter for every ten minutes (fuckin' meters).
I couldn't really tell what 26th was doing from on top of the hill. All I could tell was that there was some lifeguard recruit training going on, the main crowd was to the north, and a small group of surfers were to the south. When I was all suited up and locked up my car, I noticed that the onshore winds started to pick up.
It was hard to tell how good it was from the sand. The second I touched the water I couldn't believe how cold it was. It's June, and the water is still balls freezing. WTF? I braced the cold and finally woke up upon my first duckdive. On the way out I saw two good waves with decent peaks form right in front of me. The first wave had a surfer going left and the next had a guy going right. When I sat at the take off zone I was able to take full account of everything. The waves weren't perfectly consistent, but the lulls weren't that long. With every set came three or four decent three foot peaks. They weren't perfect because the rides were a little short since the distance from shore wasn't very far. Also, the wind already put some texture on them, but the conditions were great for a local surf session.
Whenever I surf local right after surfing Trestles I notice that I don't surf the same. The clear difference is due to the wave, and it's almost unfair to compare. But if you're a good surfer, then you can surf in any conditions, and that's what I need to strive for.
The peaks gave both lefts and rights. I sat where the lefts would pop up. I haven't surfed consistent lefts in a long time, and I almost hate to admit how much my forehand sucks. I feel like I can't do any good turns going left. Actually, I feel like I'm thinking too much when I'm going left which probably takes away from the experience. I tried to tell myself to just surf, have fun, feel the wave, and everything else should come naturally.
The lifeguard training ended, and the 26th St. locals took over the main peak again. I spent a good deal of the session fighting the current. Some huge mutant dolphines were swimming through the line up and jumping out of the water. They were on a direct path towards me. I cringed and nervously waited their arrival, but then they jumped out and scared the shit out of the surfer in front of me. Right on.
I got a right that I got three turns on. No, not clean turns, but fun. The wind got stronger and kept knocking down the waves. However, the swell kept the peaks coming, just more choppy and bumpy now. My last wave was a right, and it felt like I got a such a good top turn off of the lip that I almost turned the board completely around. Of course, I probably didn't. It just felt this way, but it felt good even though it probably didn't look like it.
The inside was a little consistent and it was a little work to get to the outside. After that wave I saw that it was 1000. I needed to meet my friend for breakfast, so I had to leave anyway.
I wish I made it earlier. I could imagine how nice it was without the wind. Those peaks had to be clean.
ahhh this is when you went to metro ey? nice! yea, today (saturday) was similar conditions... life guard training, mutant dolphins (they had to be around 6 feet long) and what not, but yea, probably the early morning was better for you on thursday.
ReplyDeletei have yet to get a wave and do 3 turns on it, frontside. i say frontside because that is my stronger side (it seems.. i don't know i haven't been to a left hand point break in a long time to practice going left) but anyways, hopefully you got a good feel for busting some turns backside again.