Thursday, June 2, 2011

TRESTLES--SUNSET AT CHURCHES: FRI 5.27.2011 EVE



I made her pose like this.

CREW: Lauren on camera duty
TIME: 1900 - 1945, 45 min.
CONDITIONS: Clean, glassy, sunny, barely any wind, uncrowded, 2-3 feet, small but fun.

    After checking-in, setting up camp, and eating a late ass breakfast, Lauren finally showed up at around 1600. She helped me set up the final touches to the tent which was the rain tarp, which we will unfortunately hear about again later. I wanted to paddle out earlier, but I had to wait for the firewood delivery guy. As soon as he showed up at 1845, I changed, and Lauren accompanied me with her hand-held digital recorder.

    The Bud Light Lime Series was officially over for the day. The tents were completely vacant, save for two guys wrapping things up. The sun was already low, and only four guys were out. As much as I would’ve loved to see what Trestles was doing, the sun’s rays were already fading.

    The size went down, as the waves were only 2-3 feet but still clean for the most part. The dark cobblestones in the water sharply contrasted the low orange glow over the horizon. Desperate for waves, I caught anything that came my way. My judgment must’ve been poor because every time I finished a ride, the set waves would break on the outside, and I would miss them completely. Maybe the pressure was on because I knew Lauren was recording. I tried my best to force some good top turns for spray, but the size wasn’t there. I could only put in one top turn at best, and then I’d fall on the second one. Really, I should’ve just lightly trimmed down the line to take the waves for what they were worth. It didn’t matter; I still had a lot of fun. For that little 45 min. I had a high wave count. I only left because we still had to cook and there wasn’t much daylight left.
I may not shred at surfing, but I shred at making Smores!

    The scenery was the most captivating of all. The sun was like a giant orange ball with dead sticks, trees, and brush giving their dark silhouettes against it.
Bunny in a blanket.

     When I returned home on Monday I looked at the footage that Lauren got. Wow, what a reality check. In my mind, I looked totally awesome. On the raw footage, I saw my arms flailing, absent of balance, and looking awkward on two foot waves. The best part was Lauren filming the sun. Oh well . . . I guess I needed to see this footage to remind myself that self image is harshly different from the actual.




   

5 comments:

  1. did u see the pics nicole put up? they are pretty cool ones of you surfing. nice write up and description of the scenery.

    pretty ballsy to post that vid up! we are still noobs... but this is the best way to learn what we are doing incorrectly while surfing...

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  2. ohhh snap cool video matt! even just watching that i notice how your legs ....well the heels swing back to the butt, and the swing down and then under for that pop up.
    i;m gonna see if that improves mine as well :)

    p.s my word verification is "sion sc"
    LIVE LIKE SION!

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  3. KK, those pics that Nic put up were cool. I kind of scratched my head at first. Obviously the surfing sucked, but I thought that it was nice to put up a video to reflect my writing, just to give it some validation. I could only write how the sunset was, but Lauren actually caught it on film. And yes, good value to get the reality check of how I really look.
    Dais, man, whatever you do, don't mimic what I'm doing yet. I'm not even sure I'm doing the right things sometimes, especially after watching this. I wouldn't want you to pick up my bad habits.

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  4. i wish i had a video of myself surfing! lol it's still pretty cool, imo.

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  5. Eh . . . I hope to redeem myself in Bali. We'll see. Haha.

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