Conditions: Gloomy again, clean, 2-3 feet.
The back of my neck is all rashed up from my wetsuit. I can't understand it; it's never happened before. The initial plan is to go to HB, but I have to go to the VA to see the doctor, so I have to surf local. I check Porto and 26th, but Porto looks much better. The surf is a hair smaller than yesterday, but there's no wind, the waves seem clean, and it looks pretty fun out there.
I wish I could remember all of the rides that I got. I can't because there is one wave that overshadows the rest of them. Practicing my barrel riding, I've been working on staying close to the face until the wave closes out. Even though Porto is small, the waves are standing up. They aren't slopey, the faces are vertical, and the shoulders taper sharply after the curl. On one left, I crouch close to the wall, but there is nothing going over me; I'm too far on the shoulder. On the next wave, the section in front of me goes vertical, but it's longer. Expecting a close out, I tuck in going front side and extend my right arm to make myself flatter against the face. Instead of the usual crash and darkness that follows, I watch the wave throw-out over my head for a solid two seconds. I don't fall. When the wave closes, I'm still standing after penetrating out the back. Yes, it was fast, just mere seconds, but it was a new sensation that I've never felt before. Who cares that it was barely a three foot wave. Stoked, I look around to see if I got any validation. Of course, there are no witnesses. It's something that only my perspective can appreciate.
It doesn't count as a barrel, but it feels like I've unlocked something here. Before Bali I wouldn't have even imagined that Porto would have this kind of potential, especially in small surf, but now I know it's there.
I spend the rest of the session trying to reduplicate that wave, but it doesn't happen; I can't force it. I hope this is just a small taste of what's to come.
woo hoo~ barrel riding~
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2 seconds? try 0.2 seconds!! ahahaha the thing with barrel riding is that time travels really really sloooooowwwww.... so it's probably not as long as you think! nevertheless, congrats on your successful attempt!
and yea, no matter how hard you try, that same wave will never come, but at least you're looking for them now... i think we need to go to HB
You may be right, but I didn't eat shit in the mini, so the stoke couldn't have been avoided. HB for sure. My parking pass is good til' Aug.
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