Crew: Francis, Christina, Deathwish Dave
Time: 0700- 0930, 2 hrs. & 30 min.
Conditions: Light onshore wind, extremely foggy with low visibility, cool temperatures, 2-3ft.+, consistent.
Francis really wanted to head to HB, but I've been holding out, especially with the likeliness of the wind. After all, it's also nice to just surf local and drive a couple miles to get home for a change. I told him that I'd be at Parks, and he was down. I tex'd Chris, Khang, and Dave in case they wanted to join.
Low tide is just after 0600, so I take my time waking up and head out at 0630. I score a free parking spot on 27th. It doesn't look very appetizing out there. I haven't seen a clean, glassy morning since my first two Porto sessions upon my return from Bali. Texture's all over the surface as the wind knocks down the waves. I can see the sets coming in, and there's potential for some short rides. I shoot the text to let everyone know where I'll be. I almost regret not bringing the full suit. The morning air is much cooler than the last couple of mornings. I wonder if I'll suffer because of my short sleeves.
It's too early for the place to be packed. There's an old Japanese longboarder in the water that I've seen for the last four days straight. The tide is still low, so I walk out just behind the line up. On the way out I duckdive a couple rideable waves. Once I'm sitting in the water, the waves look much better than they did from shore. Three foot waves form in the distance, but the low tide makes them close out. I talk to the longboarder, and he comments on how the inside is shallow. Then he looks up and says, “Oh no, clouds!” It's sunny, but the wind is pushing the low marine layer over the Manhattan homes. Ten minutes later the sun disappears, and we can barely make out the waves over the deep sea.
Despite the poor rating from surfline, the waves are rideable and consistent. Sure, the wind is messing it up, but there are still shoulders mixed in with the closeouts. Also, the pulse from the new swell is undeniable. I catch a lot of fast rides to start the sessions. Some of the waves hold shape on the inside, good for a little distance and pumping.
At about 0730 I turn around to see Francis walking out. The tide's come up a bit, it's still shallow, but the waves don't lose their energy. We both trade off waves; it's literally another wave buffet, just a messy one. I've always felt that foggy conditions make the waves look bigger. Since you only see them at the last second, they are always a surprise. And honestly . . . I don't mind the change of scenery. The South Bay tends to do this, and there's no doubt about the sun shining just over the hill.
At 0815 Christina joins us. Her and Francis talk about Power Yoga. Apparently, Francis and Nicole went yesterday, but they missed the class with Christina. I manage to get a couple waves with good shape. I pull off a couple turns on some rights, but I pump and go for imitation barrels on the lefts.
Maybe ten minutes later, Deathwish Dave is in the water; there are four of us. It's not a bad showing of people. The overcast keeps the crowds light, and surfers are so spread out that we all have freedom to maneuver. At about 0830 is when the window of good surf opens. The tide is at the perfect height where it's no too swampy, and the inside's not so shallow any more. Junky peaks continue to form in the distance, but all that matters is that they have shoulders. Christina and Dave let the current take them north, pretty far away from us. I'm tired, but I continue to fight the current.
After the second hour, things get a little swampy. There are still waves, but we get our first legit lulls of the morning. I'm surprised at how empty the lineup has been. People must've looked out their windows or looked at the surf report and thought that it wasn't worth it. Excellent. Stay home, everyone. Leave the waves to us. At 0930 I'm spent. My paddling arms are weary, and I'm getting hungry. I wave to Christina. She waves back, but she doesn't understand the message that we're leaving.
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| $3.99 are you out of your mind?! |
Francis and I go to Mandy's in El Segundo for their breakfast special: 2 hot cakes, 2 sausages, 2 strips of bacon, and 2 eggs. And for how much? $3.99. It's a no brainer. The sun's nice and bright away from the ocean, and we sit outside to enjoy its rays. We part ways and leave the option for an evening session open. I head to Surf Concepts in Manhattan Beach. I'm not sure about surfboards, but everything is 25% off until Sunday. I need to buy wax, but I splurge on an FCS poncho towel. The price is knocked down to $33. Why not make changing at the beach a little bit easier? Now I'm home, Francis just tex'd me to ask about an evening session. I really think that I'll just take it easy. I have work on Friday, and I've surfed for the last ten days straight. Tomorrow will be dedicated to preparing for the weekend. Next week my friend has a camping spot at San Onofre, so I plan to get more surfing in there. All in all, the South Bay has been fun after getting skunked so much down south. Wind, gray skies, cold water, and short rides, we make them worth it.
Short rides are better than no rides, but I couldn't complain. You would've loved it.
ReplyDeleteDamn . . . I should reread some of my stuff to remind myself of what I went through. It was a challenge. It's funny how you think you're at a decent level of surfing, but the next time I'm there I'll look back and say, "Wow, the first time I was here I didn't know shit." Props to Dave for coming out. I hope you guys score this weekend. It looks good down south.