CRUMBS, FRI 8.05.2011 EVE

Crew: J

Met: Haena (J's GF), Steve, and Trish

Time: 1830- 2000, 1 hr. & 30 min.

Conditions: Low tide and getting lower, sunny, warm, onshore wind, choppy, 1-2 feet, close-outs.

     I get released from work early. I don't plan on surfing at all today, but J shoots me a text and says that he's surfing Porto around five o'clock. Based on the surf cams, the tide, and the forecast, it's too easy to be picky this evening. However, the last time I saw J was weeks before I left to Bali, so the paddle out feels worth it just to see a friend. Besides, why have lunch or coffee with someone to catch up when you can just paddle out for a surf?

     He gets there late because his bus broke down on the 105. I haven't seen him in a while, so I can tell he's lost some weight. He's holding his fun board and wearing boardshorts with a rash guard. I have my trunks with me, but I remember my recent hypothermia session and easily pass. He introduces me to his girlfriend Haena. He doesn't realize that I've met her before when they were just dating, but I go along with it. The waves are crumbly, breaking close to shore, and small. It's not the fun evening sessions that I've caught with Khang and Dais, but I want to catch up with J.

     In the water he tells me about his summer trip to Alaska and his recent trips surfing Mexico. I get as much intel from him as possible. I've feared Mexico from all the recent kidnappings and other drug related violence, but he assures me that you can play it safe. Unfortunately, the trip that he was planning for this month conflicts with a prior obligation, so it looks like it won't happen until September.

     I'm tired from my long day, but I try to scratch into a small left that breaks late. Since the waves break closer to shore, they close out faster. I wipe out on my first wave. On my second, I fall prematurely. I'm having an “off” session. Meanwhile, J and Haena are effortlessly catching these small pounders early with their big boards.

     J converses with other people around us, and then I realize that members of his surf group are there. J surfs independent of the DRC, and his outgoing personality gains him many friends in the water. He introduces me to his friend Steve, who he went to college with, and his other friend Trish. In conversation, J reminds me that he's already been to Bali, and he tells me a story about how he and Steve unexpectedly ran into each other on their last trips there. I feel like an idiot. I've been fooling myself thinking that Bali is surfing's equivalent to climbing Mount Everest, when in reality lots of people go there all the time. Their ability to relate keeps me humble.

     It's a mellow sunset surf session. I start catching waves, but none of the rides are quality. Regardless, J's people are cool, the energy is good, and I'm happy to catch up with a friend. The current takes everyone north, but I paddle to maintain in front of the volley ball net by the bathrooms. On paddling back out after a wave, I see a seal swimming where the waves are breaking, and then I start to think about Shark Week on the Discovery Channel. I see J walking back to his car. It's almost eight o'clock, so I catch a closer in. J invites me to dinner with him and Haena, but I opt to go home. He says, “I'm sure you learned a lot in Bali. I can't wait to get some surf time with you to see you rip!” I laugh at his comment and tell him that Bali humbled me, and that I don't think I'll be ripping.

     J's going to Trestles tomorrow. Lucky bastard. I'll be at work this weekend while the surf is thumping at all south facing beaches. I hope my buddies get it while they can.