GOOD THINGS HAPPEN . . . , WED 21DEC2011

Crew: Khang, Francis, Dave, & Ryan

Ran into: Jack & Jimmy B.

Time: 0815-1030

Conditions: Sunny, warm, offshore, 3-4 ft, fast, walled, mid-low tide, hollow closeouts with occasional corners.

            With the old, walled-up swell making its exit and the new swell arriving, I hoped that today’s shape would improve somewhat. It was an easy decision to make—stay local. While there’s surf predicted in the South Bay, I may as well stay around here instead of wasting gas at the chance of getting skunked. The same crew from yesterday was down, but this morning we’d also have the edition of Deathwish Dave. 

            I told Ryan last night that I’d pick him up by 0730, but I wake up at 0715 and hit the snooze button a couple times. I shoot him the text that I’m running late. When I pull up to Natasha’s, he’s barely waking up and starts rushing to grab his gear. I tell him to take his time. Right now everything is chill: no school, no work, no rush. Driving by the jetty the surf looks small, but as soon as we get to Parks we see some closeouts, but the inside has some better shape. After circling around once, we find free parking on Highland Ave. Dave drives by and honks as we change. There’s a high feeling of optimism in the air. I’m hoping for the best; there’s no way that I’ll go five in a row without a good surf. It’s not possible; today has to be the day!

            From the sand I can tell that the conditions aren’t ideal, but I can already see the new swell trying to work its way against the walls from what’s fading. Ryan hits the water first and finds Francis. It’s a crowded morning, crowded enough to pass as a weekend almost. Since we’re late, or what I like to call “the second shift,” the local rippers (Don, Roy, and those other long-haired killers) are going for their “last ones.” I get to the lineup, say wassup to Francis, and immediately go for the first wave that comes my way. It’s a wall, but I get hung up on top, and the water gives-way as my board and I participate in the violent explosion. I wipeout a second time, crushed by the lip at mid face while going left. For some reason I’m still smiling. I laugh, and tell Khang that I’m eating shit. During my debacle he paddled out undetected. “Yeah, I saw that!” He says. He also tells me that he got really nauseas last night and then felt a bruise on his cranium from yesterday’s accident.  It just goes to show how dangerous head trauma can be out here. If it doesn’t affect you right away, you can have late concussion-like symptoms. 

            There’s a current pulling south this morning, but we have an area all to ourselves. I see Jimmy B. and Jack from the WHC. They ask me how Trestles was, and I tell them that the south wind was on it. They’re surprised that I didn’t score. 

            By now I’m complaining to Khang that I can’t get a wave with turns. Just then, a long peak forms in the distance, and I’m in position to chase the shoulder. It’s the occasional corner that I’ve been hoping for. It looks barely two-feet high, but it jacks up once I drop in. Finally, a wave that’s lined up and gradually building. A couple pumps get me to the open shoulder. My first top turn lacks speed, so I don’t get any arch off the tail. I pump harder for momentum on my second attempt and get a good frontside carve half way down the face. Stoked, I look back for recognition from Khang, ignoring the remnants of the ride. I have a girly moment, self celebrating with a smile, laugh, and a loud “Wooooh!” all to myself in thigh deep water. Back at the lineup I know that my day is made. It doesn’t matter what happens now; I got the best ride I’ve had since Thanksgiving! 

            The crowd thickens around us. Dave joins the group, but he’s nursing his left shoulder. He says he hurt it during his last session. Most of us are catching closeouts. Ryan doesn’t look as stoked; it may be from the slight drop in size compared to yesterday. The smaller waves have the best shape. They look small but stand up towards the inside, nice and fast. I manage a couple other rides with shape but not many. Dave . . . he really lives up to his alias Deathwish. Man, with the combined swells, some waves double up, connect sections on the inside, and turn bottomless over the drained tide. Dave paddles into this double up; he has it. But it connects with another section that’s walled up. He tries to shift to the tail but ends up airdropping, chomped by a heavy dumpster. Ballsy . . . that’s what I tell him when he resurfaces. 

            God damn, wave of the day here. Francis and Khang just caught a wave. The next one has better shape, and again, I’m right by the shoulder, or I thought I was right by the shoulder. As I’m popping up I realize I’m a little too deep. All I know is that I’m going left, but I see the lip throwing-out as I’m dropping in. I crouch as low as I can, grab my rail, and set my line tight to the curl. I hear Khang say, “Yeah, Matt!” Looking down the line I see the cylindrical shape of the tube with the lip going over. I’m not in there long, but it’s long enough. Not full-on, but semi barrel. Jesus . . . after weeks of seeing my friends get some cover up, I’m finally graced with a little shampoo action myself. I let myself get pinched because I’m on the verge of colliding with Sauce and Khang. I resurface trying to compute what just happened as the fellas are pumping me up, enriching my moment. I must say . . . I would’ve enjoyed it if I was alone, but to share it friends made it mean much more. 

            Still, it’s dangerous out here. I catch a nasty closeout, it’s hollow, I’m inside, and I see an eternal lip folding over before I’m enveloped. It’s an awkward wipeout when the curtain comes down while you’re standing on your board. Nearing 1100, we all make our way out separately. I’d like to grab breakfast with Natasha and Ryan again, but I’m hoping to catch Lauren before she goes to work. Ryan and I stop by the new Schatt’s Bakery in the Gundo, get some pastries, sit, and converse over coffee. He tells me about his travels to Panama, Chile, and Brazil. He’s had a good trip down south, but he goes back up north tomorrow. We take a couple pics before I leave. At least I know I got a buddy in Oregon to show me the surf, but it’s a little hard to imagine being up there. Another friend made through surfing; he’s a cool guy. 

            Back at the apartment Lauren’s already gone. I clean up my place, eat a little breakfast, and organize the rest of my day. I’m enjoying my winter break.